Personal care compositions

ABSTRACT

Personal care compositions comprising a dipeptide and methods of using such compositions to treat the condition of keratinous tissue. The C terminal amino acid of said dipeptide is threonine. The personal care composition can be applied topically, ingested orally, injected, or used as part of a combined treatment regimen.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising adipeptide and optionally one or more other ingredients. Suchcompositions are useful for regulating the condition of mammaliankeratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, and/or nails).

BACKGROUND

Many personal care products currently available to consumers aredirected primarily to improving the health and/or physical appearance ofthe skin, hair, or nails. Among these skin, hair, or nail care products,many are directed to delaying, minimizing or even eliminating skin,hair, or nail changes typically associated with the aging or theenvironmental damage to human skin, hair, or nails. Numerous compoundshave been described in the art as being useful for regulating skin,hair, or nail condition.

Skin, hair, and nails are subject to insults by many extrinsic andintrinsic factors. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation(e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, lowhumidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Intrinsic factorsinclude chronological aging and other biochemical changes from withinthe skin, hair, or nails. Whether extrinsic or intrinsic, these factorsresult in visible signs of skin, hair, and nail aging and environmentaldamage (e.g., such as sunlight damage, smoke damage, and damage frompollutants such as nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, ozone, and metalssuch as lead). To many people, the loss of the attractiveness of skin,hair, or nails is a reminder of the disappearance of youth. As a result,the maintenance of a youthful appearance has become a booming businessin youth-conscious societies. Numerous products and treatments areavailable in various forms to help maintain the appearance of youngerhair, skin, and nails.

Extrinsic or intrinsic factors may result in the thinning and generaldegradation of the skin, hair, or nails. For example, as the skin, hair,and nails naturally age, there is a reduction in the cells and bloodvessels that supply the skin, hair, or nails. There is also a flatteningof the dermal-epidermal junction which results in weaker mechanicalresistance of this junction. See, for example, Oikarinen, “The Aging ofSkin: Chronoaging Versus Photoaging,” Photodermatol. Photoimmunol.Photomed., vol. 7, pp. 3-4, 1990.

A large number of skin, hair, and nail care actives are known in the artand used to improve the health and/or cosmetic appearance of the skin,hair, or nails. For instance, various peptides are included in skin,hair, and nail care compositions to provide skin, hair, or nail carebenefits. However, not all peptides can provide the benefits desired.

For instance, C terminal serine residues can yield dipeptides which maynot be dermopharmaceutically and/or cosmetically active or which may notbe useful in preferred applications. For instance, dipeptides including,for example, lysine and serine (Lys-Ser) can have inadequate propertiesfor many dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Thus, it wouldbe desirable to provide personal care compositions comprising adipeptide that can provide superior properties when compared to thecorresponding Lys-Ser dipeptide.

SUMMARY

The present invention provides personal care compositions comprising adipeptide that can provide superior properties when compared to thecorresponding Lys-Ser dipeptide. The dipeptide of the present inventionis a dipeptide wherein the C terminal amino acid is threonine (“Thr”).More preferably, the N terminal amino acid of such dipeptide is a basicamino acid, and still more preferably one which is positively charged ata pH of 6.0. These include the naturally occurring amino acids lysine(Lys), arginine (Arg) and histidine (His). Most preferred is the use oflysine. Thus, a particularly preferred dipeptide in accordance with thepresent invention has the sequence Lys-Thr and N-acyl derivatives andesters, and nitrogen containing C terminal derivatives thereof.

The personal care compositions comprise one or more of such dipeptidesand/or derivatives of such dipeptides, preferably in a safe andeffective amount.

The present invention also relates to methods of using such compositionsto regulate the condition of mammalian keratinous tissue (e.g., skin,hair, or nails). Said methods generally comprise the step of topicallyapplying a composition of the present invention to the keratinous tissue(e.g., skin, hair, or nails) of a mammal in need of such treatment.

In another aspect, the method comprises the step of orally ingesting thedipeptide, preferably a safe and effective amount of the dipeptide, toregulate the condition of mammalian keratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair,or nails). In one embodiment, the method comprises a dual treatmentregimen comprising both oral ingestion of a composition and topicalapplication of a composition, wherein at least one of the compositionscomprises a dipeptide according to the present invention.

In another aspect, the method comprises the step of injecting thedipeptide, preferably injecting the dipeptide into and/or under theskin. In a particular embodiment, the method comprises a treatmentregimen comprising a combination of injection and/or oral administrationand/or topical application.

These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the presentinvention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a readingof the present disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

While the specification concludes with the claims particularly pointingout and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that thepresent invention will be better understood from the followingdescription.

As used herein, the singular term “dipeptide” is broad enough to includeone or more dipeptides, dipeptide derivatives, or combinations thereof.Thus, the terms “dipeptide”, “dipeptides”, and “derivatives ofdipeptides” are used interchangeably throughout. “Dipeptide” refers toboth naturally occurring dipeptides and synthesized dipeptides,including naturally occurring and commercially available compositionsthat contain at least one dipeptide.

As used herein, the singular term “peptide” is broad enough to includeone or more peptides, peptide derivatives, or combinations thereof.Thus, the terms “peptide”, “peptides”, and “derivatives of peptides” areused interchangeably throughout. “Peptide” refers to both naturallyoccurring peptides and synthesized peptides, including naturallyoccurring and commercially available compositions that contain at leastone peptide.

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the totalcomposition and all measurements made are at 25° C., unless otherwisedesignated.

The term “keratinous tissue,” as used herein, refers tokeratin-containing layers disposed as the outermost protective coveringof mammals (e.g., humans, dogs, cats, etc.) which includes, but is notlimited to, skin, mucosa, lips, hair, toenails, fingernails, cuticles,hooves, etc.

The terms “topical application”, “topically”, and “topical”, as usedherein, mean to apply (e.g., spread, spray) the compositions of thepresent invention onto the surface of the keratinous tissue.

The terms “oral”, “orally”, and “oral administration”, as used herein,refer to orally ingesting a composition of the present invention.

The term “dermatologically acceptable,” as used herein, means that thecompositions or components thereof so described are suitable for use incontact with mammalian keratinous tissue without undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.

The term “orally acceptable”, as used herein, means that thecompositions or components thereof so described are suitable for oralingestion by a mammal without undue toxicity, incompatibility,instability, allergic response, and the like.

As used herein, “effective amount” means an amount of a compound orcomposition sufficient to significantly induce a positive keratinoustissue benefit, including independently or in combination with otherbenefits disclosed herein. This means that the content and/orconcentration of dipeptide in the formulation is sufficient that whenthe formulation is applied with normal frequency and in a normal amount,the formulation can result in the treatment of one or more undesiredkeratinous tissue conditions (e.g., skin wrinkles). For instance, theamount can be an amount sufficient to inhibit or enhance somebiochemical function occurring within the keratinous tissue. This amountof dipeptide may vary depending upon the type of product, the type ofkeratinous tissue condition to be addressed, and the like.

The term “safe and effective amount” as used herein means an amount of acompound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positivebenefit, preferably a positive keratinous tissue appearance or feelbenefit, including independently or in combinations with the benefitsdisclosed herein, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, i.e., toprovide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of soundjudgment of the skilled artisan.

The personal care compositions of the present invention can be usefulfor treating keratinous tissue (e.g., hair, skin, or nails) condition.As use herein, “treating” or “treatment” or “treat” includes regulatingand/or immediately improving keratinous tissue cosmetic appearanceand/or feel. As used herein, “regulating” or “regulation” meansmaintaining or improving the health and/or cosmetic appearance, andincludes both prophylactically regulating and/or therapeuticallyregulating. Regulation of keratinous tissue condition, namely mammalianand in particular human skin, hair, or nail condition, is often requireddue to conditions which may be induced or caused by factors internaland/or external to the body. Examples include environmental damage,radiation exposure (including ultraviolet radiation), chronologicalaging, menopausal status (e.g., post-menopausal changes in skin, hair,or nails), stress, diseases, disorders, etc. For instance, “regulatingskin, hair, or nail condition” includes prophylactically regulatingand/or therapeutically regulating skin, hair, or nail condition, and mayinvolve one or more of the following benefits: thickening of skin, hair,or nails (e.g, building the epidermis and/or dermis and/or sub-dermal[e.g., subcutaneous fat or muscle] layers of the skin, and whereapplicable the keratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft) to reduceskin, hair, or nail atrophy, increasing the convolution of thedermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete ridges), preventing lossof skin or hair elasticity (loss, damage and/or inactivation offunctional skin elastin) such as elastosis, sagging, loss of skin orhair recoil from deformation; melanin or non-melanin change incoloration to the skin, hair, or nails such as under eye circles,blotching (e.g., uneven red coloration due to, e.g., rosacea)(hereinafter referred to as “red blotchiness”), sallowness (pale color),discoloration caused by telangiectasia or spider vessels, and grayinghair.

As used herein, prophylactically regulating keratinous tissue conditionincludes delaying, minimizing and/or preventing visible and/or tactilediscontinuities in keratinous tissue (e.g., texture irregularities inthe skin, hair, or nails which may be detected visually or by feel),including signs of skin, hair, or nail aging. This is also encompassedwithin the term “treating.”

As used herein, therapeutically regulating keratinous tissue conditionincludes ameliorating, e.g., diminishing, minimizing and/or effacing,discontinuities in keratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nails). Thisis also encompassed within the term “treating.”

As used herein, “personal care composition” means a composition in aform intended for topical application to keratinous tissue, and/or oralingestion, and/or injection, for the purpose of treating keratinoustissue (e.g., skin, hair, nails), and not intended for subsequentmanufacture or modification.

The compositions of the present invention can also be useful forimmediately improving keratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nail)cosmetic appearance and/or feel. For example, topical compositions ofthe present invention can be useful for regulating the cosmeticappearance of skin, hair, or nail condition by providing an immediatevisual improvement in skin, hair, or nail appearance followingapplication of the composition to the skin, hair, or nails. Generallyspeaking, topical compositions of the present invention which furthercontain particulate materials (e.g., pigments) can be most useful forproviding immediate visual improvement.

The term “sagging” as used herein means the laxity, slackness, or thelike condition of skin that occurs as a result of loss of, damage to,alterations to, and/or abnormalities in dermal elastin, muscle and/orsubcutaneous fat.

The terms “smoothing” and “softening” as used herein mean altering thesurface of the keratinous tissue such that its tactile feel is improved.

“Signs of keratinous tissue aging” include, but are not limited to, alloutward visibly and tactilely perceptible manifestations as well as anyother macro or micro effects due to keratinous tissue aging. Such signsmay be induced or caused by intrinsic factors or extrinsic factors,e.g., chronological aging and/or environmental damage. These signs mayresult from processes which include, but are not limited to, thedevelopment of textural discontinuities such as wrinkles and coarse deepwrinkles, fine lines, skin lines, crevices, bumps, large pores (e.g.,associated with adnexal structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceousglands, or hair follicles), or unevenness or roughness, loss of skinelasticity (loss and/or inactivation of functional skin elastin),sagging (including puffiness in the eye area and jowls), loss of skinfirmness, loss of skin tightness, loss of skin recoil from deformation,discoloration (including undereye circles), blotching, sallowness,hyperpigmented skin regions such as age spots and freckles, keratoses,abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagenbreakdown, and other histological changes in the stratum corneum,dermis, epidermis, the skin vascular system (e.g., telangiectasia orspider vessels), and underlying tissues (e.g., fat and/or muscle),especially those proximate to the skin.

The compositions of the present invention are described in detailhereinafter.

I. Personal Care Compositions

In one aspect, the personal care compositions of the present inventioncomprise:

(1) a dipeptide;

(2) a dermatologically or orally acceptable carrier or an injectibleliquid; and

(3) optionally, optional components.

The personal care compositions of the present invention can be in anysuitable form. All forms of topical and oral personal care compositionscomprising these dipeptides are contemplated and can include, forinstance, creams, gels, lotions, emulsions, serums, colloids, solutions,suspensions, ointments, milks, sprays, capsules, tablets, liquids,sticks, solids, pastes, powders, compacts, pencils, spray-onformulations, brush-on formulations, cloths, wipes, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of topical personal care compositions can include,without limitation, lipstick, mascara, rouge, foundation, blush,eyeliner, lipliner, lip gloss, facial or body powder, sunscreens andblocks, nail polish, mousse, sprays, styling gels, nail conditioner,bath and shower gels, shampoos, conditioners, cream rinses, hair dyesand coloring products, leave-on conditioners, sunscreens and sunblocks,lip balms, skin conditioners, cold creams, moisturizers, hair sprays,soaps, body scrubs, exfoliants, astringents, depilatories and permanentwaving solutions, antidandruff formulations, antisweat andantiperspirant compositions, shaving, preshaving and after shavingproducts, moisturizers, deodorants, cold creams, cleansers, skin gels,and rinses. Furthermore, the composition can be applied topicallythrough the use of a patch or other delivery device. Delivery devicescan include, but are not limited to, those that can be heated or cooled,as well as those that utilize iontophoresis or ultrasound.

Non-limiting examples of oral personal care compositions can include,without limitation, tablets, pills, capsules, drinks, beverages,powders, vitamins, supplements, health bars, candies, chews, and drops.

In another aspect, the present invention provides a personal careregimen comprising the use of at least one topical composition incombination with at least one oral composition. At least one of thecompositions in this regimen comprises a dipeptide according to thepresent invention. Preferably, the regimen includes at least one topicalcomposition comprising such dipeptide and at least one oral compositioncomprising such dipeptide.

In another aspect, the method comprises the step of injecting thedipeptide, preferably injecting the dipeptide into and/or under theskin. In a particular embodiment, the method comprises a treatmentregimen comprising a combination of injection and/or oral administrationand/or topical application of the dipeptide of the present invention.

II. Dipeptide

The compositions of the present invention comprise a dipeptide active.As used herein, the term “dipeptide” is broad enough to include one ormore dipeptides, one or more derivatives of dipeptides, and combinationsthereof. Preferably, the compositions comprise an effective amount,preferably a safe and effective amount, of such dipeptide.

A suitable peptide active for use herein is the dipeptide lys-thr andderivatives thereof. A preferred dipeptide derivative-containingcomposition is palmitoyl-lys-thr from Sederma, France. The use ofthreonine (Thr) as the C terminal residue in a dipeptide is particularlydesirable, and can provide superior attributes in comparison to similardipeptides terminating with a serine. For instance, the dipeptideLys-Thr and N-acyl derivatives and esters, and nitrogen containing Cterminal derivatives thereof can provide superior properties whencompared to the corresponding Lys-Ser dipeptide.

Thus, the dipeptide of the present invention is a dipeptide where the Cterminal amino acid is threonine (“Thr”). More preferably, the Nterminal amino acid of such dipeptides is a basic amino acid, one whichis positively charged at a pH of 6.0. These include the naturallyoccurring amino acids lysine (Lys), arginine (Arg) and histidine (His).Most preferred is the use of lysine. Thus, a particularly preferreddipeptide in accordance with the present invention has the sequenceLys-Thr and N-acyl derivatives and esters, and nitrogen containing Cterminal derivatives thereof.

Dipeptides and derivatives in accordance with the present inventioninclude, without limitation, His-Thr, Arg-Thr, Lys-Thr, Alk-His-Thr,Alk-Arg-Thr, Alk-Lys-Thr, His-Thr-OAlk, Arg-Thr-OAlk, Lys-Thr-OAlk,His-Thr-NR₁R₂, Arg-Thr-NR₁R₂, Lys-Thr-NR₁R₂, Alk-His-Thr-OAlk,Alk-Lys-Thr-NR₁R₂, Alk-Lys-Thr-OAlk. When used on the left side of thesequence, “Alk” refers to an N-acyl derivative as defined herein. Whenused on the right side of the sequence, “OAlk” refers to an ester groupattached to the C terminal carbonyl of Thr (e.g., COOAlk). “NR₁R₂” is asdefined herein.

In accordance with another aspect of the present invention, dipeptidesof the present invention have the following structure:

wherein

-   A=NH₃ ⁺(CH₂)₄—,    -   NH₂ ⁺═C(NH₂)NH—(CH₂)₃— or

-   B=—NH₂, —NH₃ ⁺, —NH-D,-   D=an acyl group of 2-22 carbon atoms in length, or biotinyl and-   E=—O-Alk, —NR₁R₂, —H, —O⁻, or —OH,-   wherein Alk is an alkyl group of 1-24 carbons in length, and R₁ and    R₂ are independently H or an alkyl group of 1-12 carbons in length.    In a particularly preferred embodiment, B=—NH-D. Note that the    molecules of A (Lys, Arg and His respectively) are shown in their    respective charged states at pH 6.0. It is understood that they may    be present in an uncharged state as well and the representation of A    above is meant to include both.

The dipeptides in accordance with the present invention, when providedin personal care compositions, are preferably provided in an amountwhich is safe and effective to treat at least one sign of an undesiredkeratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nail) condition. The phrase “totreat at least one undesired keratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, ornail) condition” as used herein means that the dipeptide provides anobjectively measurable increase in its effect on some aspect of thekeratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nail) condition when usedtopically and/or orally in an effective amount. This can be, forexample, a greater reduction in wrinkles, increased potency, the abilityto stimulate or inhibit at least one biochemical process within theskin, hair, or nails to a greater degree, and the like. Generally, thisis determined based on comparison to a control.

The dipeptide is preferably included in an amount of from about 1×10-6%to about 10%, more preferably from about 1×10-6% to about 0.1%, and evenmore preferably from about 1×10-5% to about 0.01%, by weight of thepersonal care composition.

Reference to a “dipeptide” in accordance with the present inventionmeans a dipeptide whose C terminal amino acid is Thr. These include,unless the context specifies otherwise, N-acyl derivatives thereof, aswell as C terminal derivatives such as esters, acid halides, andnitrogen containing compounds as discussed herein.

The N-acyl derivatives are groups attached to the N terminal amino acidin place of a hydrogen and can include alkyl chains of carbon lengths ofbetween 2 and 22 carbons. These can be linear or branched, substitutedor unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or not,containing sulfur or not. N-Acyl may also represent a biotinyl group.Similarly, the threonine may be in the form of a C terminal derivativeincluding, for example, an acid, an ester with an alkyl chain having acarbon length of between 1 and 24 carbons (“Oalk”), preferably 1 to 3carbons or 14 to 18 carbons. These can be linear or branched,substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated ornot, containing sulfur or not. The C terminal derivative may also beNR1R2, in which R1 and R2 are independent of each other H or an alkylchain of carbon length of between 1 and 12 carbons. These can be linearor branched, substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated,hydroxylated or not, containing sulfur or not. Preferably, the acylderivative attached to the N terminal amino acid is a palmitoyl groupand most preferably, the C terminal amino acid is in the form of anacid.

All terms such as “skin aging”, “signs of skin aging”, and the like areused in the sense in which they are generally and widely used in the artof developing, testing and marketing personal care products. “Wrinkles”means furrows in the otherwise smooth surface of the facial skin,visible to the naked eye, generally in the average depth of 50 to morethan 200 μm and essentially appearing with progressive age.

The term “amino acid” as employed herein includes and encompasses all ofthe naturally occurring and synthetic amino acids, either in the D- orL-configuration if optically active. The term “dipeptide” means amolecule comprising two amino acids as defined herein.

In order to enhance the bioavailability and cutaneous and/or epithelialbarrier crossing of those peptides, their lipophilicity or lipophiliccharacter can be increased either by acylation of the N-terminal NH₂group of the peptide, by esterification of the carboxyl group with analcohol, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated ornot, or both.

In preferred methods of implementation of the invention, N-acyl groupsused are lauroyl (C₁₂) or myristoyl (C₁₄) or palmitoyl (C₁₆) or stearoyl(C₁₈) or oleoyl (C_(18:1)) or arachidic (C₂₀) or linoleoyl (C_(18:2)).Biotinyl groups (biotin or derivatives) are also preferred. In aparticularly preferred embodiment, the N terminal group is either H orPalmitoyl.

III. Optional Components/Ingredients

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moresuitable desired optional components. For example, the composition canoptionally include other active or inactive ingredients. Compositionscomprising a peptide in combination with an optional keratinous tissueactive, such as niacinamide, can be capable of providing additive and/orsynergistic keratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nail) benefits.

For instance, such materials can be selected from the group consistingof sugar amines (e.g., N-acetylglucosamine), vitamin B3 compounds,sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols,soy derivatives (e.g., equol and other isoflavones), niacinamide,phytantriol, farnesol, bisabolol, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines,dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds, flavonoids, N-acyl amino acidcompounds, retinoids (e.g., retinyl propionate), water-soluble vitamins,ascorbates (e.g., vitamin C, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbylpalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate),particulate materials, sunscreen actives, anti-cellulite agents,butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, their derivatives,and combinations thereof. Other examples of optional ingredients caninclude cationic polymers, conditioning agents (hydrocarbon oils, fattyesters, silicones), anti dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents,antipsoriasis agents, suspending agents, viscosity modifiers, dyes,nonvolatile solvents or diluents (water soluble and insoluble),pearlescent aids, foam boosters, surfactants, nonionic cosurfactants,pediculocides, pH adjusting agents, perfumes, preservatives, chelants,chelating agents, proteins, UV absorbers, pigments, other amino acids,and other vitamins.

For instance, the compositions of the present invention may comprise oneor more vitamins and/or amino acids such as: water soluble vitamins suchas vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, C, pantothenic acid, pantothenyl ethylether, panthenol, biotin, and their derivatives, water soluble aminoacids such as asparagine, alanine, indole, glutamic acid and theirsalts, water insoluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E, and theirderivatives, water insoluble amino acids such as tyrosine, tryptamine,and their salts.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain one or morepigment materials such as inorganic, nitroso, monoazo, disazo,carotenoid, triphenyl methane, triaryl methane, xanthene, quinoline,oxazine, azine, anthraquinone, indigoid, thionindigoid, quinacridone,phthalocianine, botanical, natural colors, including: water solublecomponents such as those having C. I. Names. The compositions of thepresent invention may also contain antimicrobial agents which are usefulas cosmetic biocides and antidandruff agents including: water solublecomponents such as piroctone olamine, water insoluble components such as3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban and zincpyrithione.

Furthermore, the composition can comprise other peptides, such as thosedisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,492,326, issued Dec. 10, 2002, to Robinsonet al. (e.g., pentapeptides such as lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, and derivativesthereof). Suitable pentapeptide derivatives includepalmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, available from Sederma, France. Anotheroptional dipeptide that can be used in the composition herein iscarnosine. As used herein, the term “peptide” is broad enough to includeone or more peptide, one or more peptide derivatives, and combinationsthereof.

In one embodiment, the optional ingredients do not comprise a peptide.In a particular embodiment, the optional ingredients comprise a peptidewherein said peptide is not a pentapeptide (e.g.,palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser). In another embodiment, the optionalingredients do not comprise the pentapeptidepalmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser. In yet another embodiment, the optionalingredients comprise a peptide, such as a pentapeptide (e.g.,palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser) but said peptide is not present in aneffective amount (e.g., it is included for a purpose other than thedesired benefits disclosed herein) or such peptide is not present in asafe and effective amount.

Any other suitable optional component can also be included in thepersonal care composition of the present invention, such as thoseingredients that are conventionally used in given product types. TheCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by theCosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.)(2004) (hereinafter “CTFA”), describes a wide variety of nonlimitingmaterials that can be added to the composition herein. Examples of theseingredient classes include, but are not limited to: abrasives,absorbents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments,colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, etc.(e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyllactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents,antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropylbutylcarbamate), antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antioxidants,binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents,chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents,cosmetic biocides, denaturants, drug astringents, external analgesics,film formers or materials, e.g., polymers, for aiding the film-formingproperties and substantivity of the composition (e.g., copolymer ofeicosene and vinyl pyrrolidone), opacifying agents, pH adjusters, plantderivatives, plant extracts, plant tissue extracts, plant seed extracts,plant oils, botanicals, botanical extracts, preservatives, propellants,reducing agents, sebum control agents, sequestrants, skin bleaching andlightening agents, (e.g. hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine), enzymes,coenzymes, skin-conditioning agents (e.g. humectants and occlusiveagents), skin soothing and/or healing agents and derivatives (e.g.panthenol, and derivatives such as ethyl panthenol, aloe vera,pantothenic acid and its derivatives, allantoin, bisabolol, anddipotassium glycyrrhizinate), skin treating agents (e.g. vitamin Dcompounds, mono-, di-, and tri-terpenoids, beta-ionol, cedrol),thickeners, and vitamins and derivatives thereof.

Several preferred optional components are discussed in more detailbelow.

1. Sugar Amines (Amino Sugars)

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a sugar amine,which is also known as amino sugar. Sugar amine compounds useful in thepresent invention can include those described in PCT Publication WO02/076423 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,159,485.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.01% to about15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and even morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition, ofsugar amine.

Sugar amines can be synthetic or natural in origin and can be used aspure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts from naturalsources or mixtures of synthetic materials). For example, glucosamine isgenerally found in many shellfish and can also be derived from fungalsources. As used herein, “sugar amine” includes isomers and tautomers ofsuch and its salts (e.g., HCl salt) and is commercially available fromSigma Chemical Co.

Examples of sugar amines that are useful herein include glucosamine,N-acetyl glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine,N-acetyl galactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers), and theirsalts (e.g., HCl salt). Preferred for use herein are glucosamine,particularly D-glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine, particularlyN-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

2. Vitamin B₃ Compounds

The compositions of the present invention can include a vitamin B3compound. Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulatingskin conditions, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,939,082. In oneembodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 50%,more preferably from about 0.01% to about 20%, even more preferably fromabout 0.05% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 0.1% toabout 7%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight ofthe composition, of the vitamin B3 compound.

As used herein, “vitamin B3 compound” means a compound having theformula:

wherein R is —CONH₂ (i.e., niacinamide), —COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or—CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of anyof the foregoing.

Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds includenicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinicacid (e.g, tocopherol nicotinate, myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl aminoacids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acidN-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters ofC₁-C₂₂, preferably C₁-C₁₆, more preferably C₁-C₆ alcohols. The alcoholsare suitably straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic,saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted orunsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilating. As usedherein, “non-vasodilating” means that the ester does not commonly yielda visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subjectcompositions (the majority of the general population would notexperience a visible flushing response, although such compounds maycause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye, i.e., the ester isnon-rubifacient). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid includetocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinateis preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B₃ compound are derivatives ofniacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amidegroup hydrogens. Nonlimiting examples of derivatives of niacinamideuseful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, fromthe reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinicacid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinylalcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C1-C18). Specificexamples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N2O3) andnicotinyl hydroxamic acid (C6H6N2O2), which have the following chemicalstructures:

Nicotinuric Acid:

Nicotinyl Hydroxamic Acid:

Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters ofthe carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid,palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B3compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide,6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n,n-diethylnicotinamide,n-(hydroxymethyl)-nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide,n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde,isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide,nialamide, 1-(3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol,and niaprazine.

Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art andare commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the SigmaChemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, Calif.)and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wis.).

One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitaminB3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide ismore preferred.

When used, salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacinamide arepreferably those having substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide.

Salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Nonlimitingexamples of salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein includeorganic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionicinorganic species (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate,preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (includingmono-, di- and tri-C1-C18 carboxylic acid salts, e.g., acetate,salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferablymonocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate). These and other salts of thevitamin B3 compound can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan, forexample, as described by W. Wenner, “The Reaction of L-Ascorbic andD-Iosascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide”, J. OrganicChemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26 (1949). Wenner describes the synthesis of theascorbic acid salt of niacinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B3 compoundis substantially chemically free (e.g., unbound and/or unhindered), orafter delivery to the skin becomes substantially chemically free(“chemically free” is hereinafter alternatively referred to as“uncomplexed”). More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentiallyuncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3compound in a salt or otherwise complexed form, such complex ispreferably substantially reversible, more preferably essentiallyreversible, upon delivery of the composition to the skin. For example,such complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from about5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily determined by onehaving ordinary skill in the art.

More preferably the vitamin B3 compound is substantially uncomplexed inthe composition prior to delivery to the keratinous tissue. Exemplaryapproaches to minimizing or preventing the formation of undesirablecomplexes include omission of materials which form substantiallyirreversible or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, pHadjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, andformulating wherein the vitamin B3 compound and materials which complextherewith are in different phases. Such approaches are well within thelevel of ordinary skill in the art.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains alimited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantiallyfree of salts of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably the vitamin B3compound contains less than about 50% of such salt, and is morepreferably essentially free of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound inthe compositions hereof having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typicallycontain less than about 50% of the salt form.

The vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially purematerial, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemicalisolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources. The vitamin B3 compound ispreferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

3. Dehydroacetic Acid (DHA)

The composition of this invention can include dehydroacetic acid, havingthe structure:

or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives or tautomers thereof.As used herein, “pharmaceutically acceptable” means that the salts ofdehydroacetic acid are suitable for use in contact with the tissues ofmammals to which they will be exposed without undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and thelike. The technical name for dehydroacetic acid is3-Acetyl-6-methyl-2H-pyran-2,4(3H)-dione and can be commerciallypurchased from Lonza.

Pharmaceutically acceptable salts include alkali metal salts, such assodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium andmagnesium; non-toxic heavy metal salts; ammonium salts; andtrialkylammonium salts, such as trimethylammonium and triethylammonium.Sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts of dehydroacetic acid arepreferred. Highly preferred is sodium dehydroacetate which can bepurchased from Tri-K, as Tristat SDHA. Derivatives of dehydroacetic acidinclude, but are not limited to, any compounds wherein the CH₃ groupsare individually or in combination replaced by amides, esters, aminogroups, alkyls, and alcohol esters. Tautomers of dehydroacetic acid arethe isomers of dehydroacetic acid which can change into one another withgreat ease so that they ordinarily exist in equilibrium. Thus, tautomersof dehydroacetic acid can be described as having the chemical formulaC₈H₈O₄ and generally having the structure above.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention cancomprise from about 0.001% to about 25% by weight of the composition,preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about0.05% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%,of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivativesor tautomers thereof.

4. Phytosterol

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a phytosterol.For example, one or more phytosterols can be selected from the groupconsisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol,Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, theirderivatives, analogs, and combinations thereof. More preferably, thephytosterol is selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol,campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, andcombinations thereof. More preferably, the phytosterol is stigmasterol.

Phytosterols can be synthetic or natural in origin and can be used asessentially pure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts fromnatural sources). Phytosterols are generally found in the unsaponifiableportion of vegetable oils and fats and are available as free sterols,acetylated derivatives, sterol esters, ethoxylated or glycosidicderivatives. More preferably, the phytosterols are free sterols. As usedherein, “phytosterol” includes isomers and tautomers of such and iscommercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company, Sigma ChemicalCompany, and Cognis.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprisesfrom about 0.0001% to about 25%, more preferably from about 0.001% toabout 15%, even more preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, stillmore preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, and even more preferablyfrom about 0.2% to about 2% phytosterol, by weight of the composition.

5. Salicylic Acid Compound

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a salicylic acidcompound, its esters, its salts, or combinations thereof. In oneembodiment of the compositions of the present invention, the salicylicacid compound preferably comprises from about 0.0001% to about 25%, morepreferably from about 0.001% to about 15%, even more preferably fromabout 0.01% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about5%, and even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, by weight ofthe composition, of salicylic acid.

6. Hexamidine

The compositions of the present invention can include hexamidinecompounds, its salts, and derivatives. Suitable hexamidine compoundsuseful in the present invention include those compositions thatcorrespond to those of the following chemical structure:

wherein R¹ and R² are organic acids (e.g., sulfonic acids, etc.).

In one embodiment, the hexamidine comprises from about 0.0001% to about25%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferablyfrom about 0.01% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.02%to about 2.5% by weight of the composition.

As used herein, hexamidine derivatives include any isomers and tautomersof hexamidine compounds including but not limited to organic acids andmineral acids, for example sulfonic acid, carboxylic acid, etc.Preferably, the hexamidine compounds include hexamidine diisethionate,commercially available as Eleastab® HP100 from LaboratoiresSerobiologiques.

7. Dialkanoyl Hydroxyproline Compounds

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moredialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds and their salts and derivatives.Suitable dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds of the present inventioncan include those corresponding to the following chemical structure:

wherein R¹ is H, X, C₁-C₂₀ straight or branched alkyl,

X is metals (Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca) or amines (DEA, TEA);

R² is C₁-C₂₀ straight or branched alkyl;

R³ is C₁-C₂₀ straight or branched alkyl.

In one embodiment, the dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds preferablycomprise from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weightof the composition

Suitable derivatives include but are not limited to esters, for examplefatty esters, including, but not limited to tripalmitoyl hydroxyprolineand dipalmityl acetyl hydroxyproline. A particularly useful compound isdipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. As used herein, dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineincludes any isomers and tautomers of such and is commercially availableunder the tradename Sepilift DPHP® from Seppic, Inc. Further discussionof dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline appears in PCT Publication WO 93/23028.Preferably, the dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is the triethanolamine saltof dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.

8. Flavonoids

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a flavonoidcompound. Flavonoids are broadly disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,686,082and 5,686,367. Examples of flavonoids particularly suitable for use inthe present invention are one or more flavones, one or more isoflavones,one or more coumarins, one or more chromones, one or more dicoumarols,one or more chromanones, one or more chromanols, isomers (e.g.,cis/trans isomers) thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred for use herein are flavones and isoflavones, in particulardaidzein (7,4′-dihydroxy isoflavone), genistein (5,7,4′-trihydroxyisoflavone), equol (7,4′-dihydroxy isoflavan), 5,7-dihydroxy-4′-methoxyisoflavone, soy isoflavones (a mixture extracted from soy) and otherplant sources of such mixtures (e.g., red clover), and mixtures thereof.Also preferred are favanones such as hesperitin, hesperidin, andmixtures thereof.

Flavonoid compounds useful herein are commercially available from anumber of sources, e.g., Indofine Chemical Company, Inc., Steraloids,Inc., and Aldrich Chemical Company, Inc.

In one embodiment, the herein described flavonoid compounds comprisefrom about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about10%, and even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight ofthe composition.

9. N-Acyl Amino Acid Compound

The topical compositions of the present invention can comprise one ormore N-acyl amino acid compounds. The amino acid can be one of any ofthe amino acids known in the art. The N-acyl amino acid compounds of thepresent invention can correspond to the formula:

wherein R can be a hydrogen, alkyl (substituted or unsubstituted,branched or straight chain), or a combination of alkyl and aromaticgroups. A list of possible side chains of amino acids known in the artare described in Stryer, Biochemistry, 1981, published by W.H. Freemanand Company. R¹ can be C₁ to C₃₀, saturated or unsaturated, straight orbranched, substituted or unsubstituted alkyls; substituted orunsubstituted aromatic groups; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the N-acyl amino acid compound is selected from the groupconsisting of N-acyl Phenylalanine, N-acyl Tyrosine, their isomers,their salts, and derivatives thereof. The amino acid can be the D or Lisomer or a mixture thereof. N-acyl Phenylalanine corresponds to thefollowing formula:

wherein R¹ can be C₁ to C₃₀, saturated or unsaturated, straight orbranched, substituted or unsubstituted alkyls; substituted orunsubstituted aromatic groups; or mixtures thereof.

N-acyl Tyrosine corresponds to the following formula:

wherein R¹ can be C₁ to C₃₀, saturated or unsaturated, straight orbranched, substituted or unsubstituted alkyls; substituted orunsubstituted aromatic groups; or mixtures thereof.

Particularly useful as a topical skin tone evening cosmetic agent isN-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine. This agent belongs to the broad class ofN-acyl Phenylalanine derivatives, with its acyl group being a C11mono-unsaturated fatty acid moiety and the amino acid being the L-isomerof phenylalanine. N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine corresponds to thefollowing formula:

As used herein, N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine is commercially availableunder the tradename Sepiwhite® from SEPPIC.

In one embodiment, of the present invention, the N-acyl amino acidpreferably comprises from about 0.0001% to about 25%, more preferablyfrom about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% toabout 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2.5% byweight of the composition.

10. Retinoid

The compositions of this invention can comprise a retinoid, preferablyin a safe and effective amount such that the resultant composition issafe and effective for regulating keratinous tissue condition,preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities inkeratinous tissue (e.g., regulating signs of skin aging). Thecompositions can comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.005% to about 2%, even more preferably fromabout 0.01% to about 1%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about0.5%, by weight of the composition, of the retinoid. The optimumconcentration used in a composition will depend on the specific retinoidselected since their potency can vary considerably.

As used herein, “retinoid” includes all natural and/or synthetic analogsof Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biologicalactivity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers andstereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably selectedfrom retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol,including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate),retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and/or13-cis-retinoic acid), or mixtures thereof. More preferably the retinoidis a retinoid other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well knownin the art and are commercially available from a number of sources,e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.), and Boerhinger Mannheim(Indianapolis, Ind.). Other retinoids which are useful herein aredescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,677,120, issued Jun. 30, 1987 to Parish etal.; U.S. Pat. No. 4,885,311, issued Dec. 5, 1989 to Parish et al.; U.S.Pat. No. 5,049,584, issued Sep. 17, 1991 to Purcell et al.; U.S. Pat.No. 5,124,356, issued Jun. 23, 1992 to Purcell et al.; and U.S. Pat. No.Reissue 34,075, issued Sep. 22, 1992 to Purcell et al. Other suitableretinoids can include tocopheryl-retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoicacid (trans- or cis-), adapalene{6-β-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid}, and tazarotene(ethyl 6-[2-(4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl)-ethynyl]nicotinate).Preferred retinoids include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate,retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred isretinyl propionate, used most preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.3%.

11. Optional Peptide

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a peptide inaddition to the peptide of the present invention. Suitable peptides caninclude, but are not limited to, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, andhexa-peptides and derivatives thereof. In one embodiment, thecompositions comprise from about 1×10−7% to about 20%, more preferablyfrom about 1×10−6% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 1×10−5%to about 5%, by weight of optional peptide.

As used herein, “peptide” refers to peptides containing ten or feweramino acids and their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with otherspecies such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium,and the like). As used herein, peptide refers to both naturallyoccurring and synthesized peptides. Also useful herein are naturallyoccurring and commercially available compositions that contain peptides.Preferred peptides contain at least one basic amino acid (e.g.,histidine, lysine, arginine). More preferred peptides are the dipeptidecarnosine (beta-ala-his), the tripeptide gly-his-lys, the tripeptidehis-gly-gly, the tripeptide gly-gly-his, the tripeptide gly-his-gly, thetetrapeptide gly-gln-pro-arg, the pentapeptide lys-thr-thr-lys-ser,lipophilic derivatives of peptides, and metal complexes of theaforementioned (e.g., copper complex of the tripeptide his-gly-gly (alsoknown as Iamin)) Other suitable peptides include Peptide CK(arg-lys-arg); Peptide CK+ (ac-arg-lys-arg-NH2); and Peptide E,arg-ser-arg-lys. A preferred commercially available tripeptidederivative-containing composition is Biopeptide CL®, which contains 100ppm of palmitoyl-gly-his-lys and is commercially available from Sederma,France. A preferred commercially available pentapeptidederivative-containing composition is Matrixyl®, which contains 100 ppmof palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser and is commercially available fromSederma, France.

Peptide derivatives useful herein include lipophilic derivatives,preferably palmitoyl derivatives. Preferably, the peptide is selectedfrom palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, theirderivatives, and combinations thereof.

12. Ascorbates and Other Vitamins

The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or morevitamins, such as ascorbates (e.g., vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives,ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesiumascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate). Such vitamins caninclude, but are not limited to, vitamin B, vitamin B derivatives,vitamin K, vitamin K derivatives, vitamin D, vitamin D derivatives,vitamin E, vitamin E derivatives, and provitamins thereof, such aspanthenol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, when vitamincompounds are present in the compositions of the instant invention, thecompositions comprise from about 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferablyfrom about 0.001% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.01%to about 8%, and still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, byweight of the composition, of the vitamin compound.

13. Particulate Material

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moreparticulate materials. Nonlimiting examples of particulate materialsuseful in the present invention include colored and uncolored pigments,interference pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, compositepowders, optical brightener particles, and combinations thereof. Theseparticulates can, for instance, be platelet shaped, spherical, elongatedor needle-shaped, or irregularly shaped, surface coated or uncoated,porous or non-porous, charged or uncharged, and can be added to thecurrent compositions as a powder or as a pre-dispersion. In oneembodiment, particulate materials are present in the composition inlevels of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about0.05% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%,by weight of the composition. There are no specific limitations as tothe pigment, colorant or filler powders used in the composition.

Particulate materials useful herein can include, but are not limited to,bismuth oxychloride, sericite, mica, mica treated with barium sulfate orother materials, zeolite, kaolin, silica, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine,nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, polystyrene,ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, bariumsulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate, PTFE, polymethylmethacrylate, starch, modified starches such as aluminun starch octenylsuccinate, silk, glass, and mixtures thereof. Preferred organicpowders/fillers include, but are not limited, to polymeric particleschosen from the methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres such as, forexample, those sold by Toshiba silicone under the name Tospearl 145A,microspheres of polymethylmethacrylates such as those sold by Seppicunder the name Micropearl M 100, the spherical particles of crosslinkedpolydimethylsiloxanes, especially such as those sold by Dow CorningToray Silicone under the name Trefil E 506C or Trefil E 505C, sphericleparticles of polyamide and more specifically Nylon 12, especially suchas those sold by Atochem under the name Orgasol 2002D Nat C05,polystyerene microspheres such as for example those sold by DynoParticles under the name Dynospheres, ethylene acrylate copolymer soldby Kobo under the name FloBead EA209, PTFE, polypropylene, aluminiumstarch ocetenylsuccinate such as those sold by National Starch under thename Dry Flo, microspheres of polyethylene such as those sold byEquistar under the name of Microthene FN510-00, silicone resin,polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymer, platelet shaped powder madefrom L-lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred arespherical powders with an average primary particle size of from about0.1 to about 75 microns, preferably from about 0.2 to about 30 microns.

Also useful herein are interference pigments. Interference pigments, forpurposes of the present specification, are defined as thin platelikelayered particles having two or more layers of controlled thickness withdifferent refractive indices that yield a characteristic reflected colorfrom the interference of typically two, but occasionally more, lightreflections, from different layers of the platelike particle. The mostcommon examples of interference pigments are micas layered with about50-300 nm films of TiO2, Fe2O3, silica, tin oxide, and/or Cr2O3. Suchpigments are often pearlescent. Pearl pigments reflect, refract andtransmit light because of the transparency of pigment particles and thelarge difference in the refractive index of mica platelets and, forexample, the titanium dioxide coating. Useful interference pigments areavailable commercially from a wide variety of suppliers, for example,Rona (Timiron™ and Dichrona™), Presperse (Flonac™), Englehard(Duochrome™), Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (Sicopearls) and Eckart(e.g. Prestige Silk Red). Especially preferred are interference pigmentswith smaller particle sizes, with an average diameter of individualparticles less than about 75 microns in the longest direction,preferably with an average diameter less than about 50 microns.

Other pigments useful in the present invention can provide colorprimarily through selective absorption of specific wavelengths ofvisible light, and include inorganic pigments, organic pigments andcombinations thereof. Examples of such useful inorganic pigments includeiron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarineblue, and Chrome oxide. Organic pigments can include natural colorantsand synthetic monomeric and polymeric colorants. An example isphthalocyanine blue and green pigment. Also useful are lakes, primaryFD&C or D&C lakes and blends thereof. Also useful are encapsulatedsoluble or insoluble dyes and other colorants. Inorganic white oruncolored pigments useful in the present invention, for example TiO2,ZnO, or ZrO2, are commercially available from a number of sources. Oneexample of a suitable particulate material contains the materialavailable from U.S. Cosmetics (TRONOX TiO2 series, SAT-T CR837, a rutileTiO2). Particularly preferred are charged dispersions of titaniumdioxide, as are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,997,887.

Preferred colored or uncolored non-interference-type pigments have aprimary average particle size of from about 10 nm to about 100,000 nm,more preferably from about 15 nm to about 5,000 nm, even more preferablyfrom about 20 nm to about 1000 nm Mixtures of the same or differentpigment/powder having different particle sizes are also useful herein(e.g., incorporating a TiO2 having a primary particle size of from about100 nm to about 400 nm with a TiO2 having a primary particle size offrom about 10 nm to about 50 nm).

The pigments/powders of the current invention can be surface treated toprovide added stability of color and/or for ease of formulation.Non-limiting examples of suitable coating materials include silicones,lecithin, amino acids, metal soaps, polyethylene and collagen. Thesesurface treatments may be hydrophobic or hydrophilic, with hydrophobictreatments being preferred. Particularly useful hydrophobic pigmenttreatments include polysiloxane treatments such as those disclosed inU.S. Pat. No. 5,143,722.

The composition of the present invention can include dispersedparticles. In one embodiment, the composition can include at least0.025% by weight of dispersed particles, more preferably at least 0.05%,still more preferably at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least0.25%, and yet more preferably at least 0.5% by weight of the dispersedparticles. In particular embodiments of the present invention, it ispreferable to incorporate no more than about 20% by weight of dispersedparticles, more preferably no more than about 10%, still more preferablyno more than 5%, even more preferably no more than 3%, and yet morepreferably no more than 2% by weight of dispersed particles.

14. Sunscreen Actives

The compositions of the subject invention may optionally contain asunscreen active. As used herein, “sunscreen active” includes bothsunscreen agents and physical sunblocks. Suitable sunscreen actives maybe organic or inorganic.

A wide variety of conventional sunscreen actives are suitable for useherein. Sagarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., ofCosmetics Science and Technology (1972), discloses numerous suitableactives. Particularly suitable sunscreen agents are2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX),4,4′-t-butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially available as PARS OL1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoicacid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxy-propyl))aminobenzoate,2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-salicylate,glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate,methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate,2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonicacid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene,zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and mixtures of these compounds.

Preferred organic sunscreen actives useful in the compositions of thepresent invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate,butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone,2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoicacid, octocrylene, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.Especially preferred sunscreen actives include4,4′-t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate,phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, octocrylene, zinc oxide, andtitanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 1% to about 20%,more typically from about 2% to about 10% by weight of the composition,of the sun screen active. Exact amounts will vary depending upon thesunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

15. Anti-Cellulite Agents

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise ananti-cellulite agent. Suitable agents may include, but are not limitedto, xanthine compounds (e.g., caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, andaminophylline In one embodiment, when anti-cellulite compounds arepresent in the compositions of the instant invention, the compositionscomprise from about 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferably from about0.001% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%,and still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of thecomposition, of the anti-cellulite compound.

16. Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise BHT orBHA. For instance, BHT useful herein can be described by the generalstructure:

wherein X is OH or SH;

-   Y is selected from the group consisting of H, OH, OR₅, COOR₅, alkyl,    cycloalkyl, heteroalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aromatic, heteroaromatic,    carboxamido, sulfonamido, carbamate, urea, and trialkylsilyl;-   R₁, R₂, R₃, R₄ are selected from the group consisting of alkyl,    cycloalkyl, heteroalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aromatic, heteroaromatic,    OR₅, carboxamido, sulfonamido, formyl, acyl, carboxyl, carboxylate,    carbamate, urea, trialkylsilyl, hydroxyl, and hydrogen;-   R₅ is selected from the group consisting of alkyl, cycloalkyl,    heteroalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aromatic, heteroaromatic,    trialkylsilyl, acyl, and hydrogen.

In one embodiment, BHT and/or BHA comprises from about 0.0001% to about20% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 0.001% toabout 10%, even more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and stillmore preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.5%.

17. Desquamation Actives

A desquamation active may be added to the compositions of the presentinvention. In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.01%to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferablyfrom about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of adesquamation active. One desquamation system that is suitable for useherein comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and isdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,652,228. Another desquamation system thatis suitable for use herein contains sulfhydryl compounds andzwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,681,852, toBissett. Zwitterionic surfactants such as those described in thisreferenced patent can also be useful as desquamatory agents herein, withcetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

18. Anti-Acne Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or moreanti-acne actives. Examples of useful anti-acne actives includeresorcinol, sulfur, erythromycin, and zinc. Further examples of suitableanti-acne actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,607,980. In oneembodiment, when anti-acne compounds are present in the compositions ofthe instant invention, the compositions comprise from about 0.0001% toabout 50%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, still morepreferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and still more preferably fromabout 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the anti-acnecompound.

19. Anti-Wrinkle Actives/Anti-Atrophy Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a one or moreanti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives. Exemplaryanti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy actives suitable for use in the compositionsof the present invention include hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid,lactic acid, lactobionic acid), keto acids (e.g., pyruvic acid), phyticacid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol,kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, peptides from natural sources(e.g., soy peptides), and salts of sugar acids (e.g., Mn gluconate, Zngluconate). In one embodiment, when anti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy compoundsare present in the compositions of the instant invention, thecompositions comprise from about 0.0001% to about 50%, more preferablyfrom about 0.001% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.01%to about 8%, and still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, byweight of the composition, of the anti-wrinkle/anti-atrophy compound.

20. Anti-Oxidants/Racial Scavengers

The compositions of the present invention can include ananti-oxidant/radical scavenger. In one embodiment, the compositioncomprises from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 5%, of an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger.

Anti-oxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C),tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, otheresters of tocopherol, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylicacid (commercially available under the tradename Trolox®), amines (e.g.,N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), nordihydroguaiaretic acid,bioflavonoids, amino acids, silymarin, sorbic acids and its salts,lipoic acid, olive extracts, tea extracts, polyphenols such asproanthocyanidine from pine bark, carotenoids, curcumin compounds suchas tetrahydrocurcumin, OCTA (L-2-oxo-4-thiazolidine carboxylic acid),glutathione, and grape skin/seed extracts may be used. Preferredanti-oxidants/radical scavengers can be selected from esters oftocopherol, more preferably tocopherol acetate.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises tocopherol sorbate. In oneembodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 20%,more preferably from about 0.01% to about 15%, even more preferably fromabout 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to 5%, byweight of the composition, of the tocopherol sorbate.

As used herein, “tocopherol sorbate” refers to the sorbic acid ester oftocopherol, a detailed description of which can be found in issued U.S.Pat. No. 5,922,758 granted on Jul. 13, 1999 (“Methods and CompositionsEmploying 2,4-Dienoic Acid Esters of Tocopherols to Prevent or ReduceSkin Damage.”

21. Conditioning Agents

The compositions of the present invention can contain a safe andeffective amount of a conditioning agent selected from, for example,humectants, moisturizers, and skin conditioners. A variety of thesematerials can be employed and in one embodiment can be present at alevel of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, byweight of the composition. These materials can include, but are notlimited to, guanidine, urea, glycolic acid, glycolate salts (e.g.ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium), salicylic acid, lactic acid,lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium), aloe verain any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel), polyhydroxyalcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol,hexanetriol, butanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexyleneglycol and the like, polyethylene glycols, sugars (e.g., melibiose),starches, sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated glucose,fucose), hyaluronic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamidemonoethanolamine, panthenol, allantoin, and mixtures thereof. Alsouseful herein are the propoxylated glycerols described in U.S. Pat. No.4,976,953.

Also useful are various C₁-C₃₀ monoesters and polyesters of sugars andrelated materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyolmoiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties.

Preferably, the conditioning agent is selected from urea, guanidine,sucrose polyester, panthenol, dexpanthenol, allantoin, glycerol, andcombinations thereof.

22. Chelators

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a chelatoror chelating agent. As used herein, “chelator” or “chelating agent”means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system byforming a complex so that the metal ion cannot readily participate in orcatalyze oxygen radical formation.

In one embodiment, a chelating agent is added to a composition of thepresent invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.Exemplary chelators that are useful herein include those that aredisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,487,884. Preferred chelators useful incompositions of the subject invention include furildioxime andderivatives thereof. Also preferred is phytic acid.

23. Anti-Inflammatory Agents

An anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of thepresent invention. In one embodiment, an anti-inflammatory agent isadded at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.

Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents can include, but are not limited to,corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone. In addition, nonsteroidalanti-inflammatory agents can be useful herein. The varieties ofcompounds encompassed by this group are well known to those skilled inthe art. Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents that can beuseful in the composition of the present invention include, but are notlimited to, salicylates, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, andmixtures thereof.

Additional anti-inflammatory agents useful herein include allantoin andcompounds of the Licorice (the plant genus/species Glycyrrhiza glabra)family, including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivativesthereof (e.g., salts and esters).

24 Tanning Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a tanning active.In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.1% to about20%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%, and even more preferablyfrom about 3% to about 6%, by weight of the composition, of a tanningactive. A preferred tanning active is dihydroxyacetone.

25. Skin Lightening Agents

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a skin lighteningagent. In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.1% toabout 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, more preferably fromabout 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of a skinlightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known inthe art, including ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, arbutin, andtranexamic acid. Other skin lightening materials suitable for use hereincan include Acitwhite® (Cognis), Emblica® (Rona), Azeloglicina (Sinerga)and extracts (e.g. mulberry extract). A preferred skin lightening agentis ascorbyl glucoside.

26. Antimicrobial, Antibacterial and Antifungal Actives

The compositions of the present invention can comprise an antimicrobialor antifungal active. A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial orantifungal active can be added to the present compositions. In oneembodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 10%,preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and more preferably from about0.05% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of an antimicrobial orantifungal active.

Preferred examples of actives useful herein include those selected fromthe group consisting of benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid,glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoicacid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid,lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide,tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetominophen,resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide,octopirox, ciclopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole,miconazole, ketoconazole, neocycin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

27. Thickening Agents (Including Thickeners and Gelling Agents)

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or morethickening agents. In one embodiment, a thickening agent is present at alevel of from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% toabout 5%, and more preferably from about 0.25% to about 4%, by weight ofthe composition.

Nonlimiting classes of thickening agents include those selected from thegroup consisting of:

a. Carboxylic Acid Polymers

These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomersderived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts andesters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, whereinthe crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bondsand is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers usefulherein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acidcrosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. Thecarbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B.F. Goodrich(e.g., Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acidpolymeric agents include copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with oneor more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of theirshort chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol) esters, wherein the crosslinking agentis an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerytritol. These copolymers areknown as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and arecommercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1,and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. Examples of carboxylic acidpolymer thickeners useful herein include those selected from the groupconsisting of carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers,and mixtures thereof.

b. Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally comprisecrosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agentsincluding both cationic and nonionic polymers, with the cationics beinggenerally preferred. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionicpolyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymersinclude those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,100,660; 4,849,484;4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379; and EP 228,868.

c. Polyacrylamide Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally comprisepolyacrylamide polymers, especially nonionic polyacrylamide polymersincluding substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Preferred amongthese polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer given the CTFAdesignation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, availableunder the Tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of thesemulti-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H,from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

d. Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful herein.“Polysaccharides” refer to gelling agents that contain a backbone ofrepeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Nonlimiting examples ofpolysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the groupconsisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, celluloseacetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose,methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodiumcellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are thealkyl-substituted celluloses. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol andhydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradenameNatrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linearchain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose everythree units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

e. Gums

Other thickening and gelling agents useful herein include materials thatare primarily derived from natural sources. Nonlimiting examples ofthese gelling agent gums include materials selected from the groupconsisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

28. Antiperspirant Actives

Antiperspirant actives may also be included in the compositions of thepresent invention. Suitable antiperspirant actives include astringentmetallic salts, especially the inorganic and organic salts of aluminumzirconium and zinc, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferredare the aluminum containing and/or zirconium-containing materials orsalts, such as aluminum halides, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminumhydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides, andmixtures thereof. In one embodiment, when antiperspirant actives arepresent in the compositions of the instant invention, the compositionscomprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 40%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 30%, byweight of the composition, of the antiperspirant compound.

29. Detersive Surfactants

The compositions of the present invention can include detersivesurfactant. The detersive surfactant component can be included toprovide cleaning performance to the composition. The detersivesurfactant component in turn can comprise anionic detersive surfactant,zwitterionic or amphoteric detersive surfactant, or a combinationthereof. Such surfactants should be physically and chemically compatiblewith the essential components described herein, or should not otherwiseunduly impair product stability, aesthetics or performance.

Suitable anionic detersive surfactant components for use in thecomposition herein include those which are known for use in hair care orother personal care cleansing compositions. When included, theconcentration of the anionic surfactant component in the composition canpreferably be sufficient to provide the desired cleaning and latherperformance, and generally can range from about 5% to about 50%,preferably from about 8% to about 30%, more preferably from about 10% toabout 25%, even more preferably from about 12% to about 22%.

Preferred anionic surfactants suitable for use in the compositions arethe alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respectiveformulae ROSO₃M and RO(C₂H₄O)_(x)SO₃M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl offrom about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, x is an integer having a value offrom 1 to 10, and M is a cation such as ammonium, alkanolamines, such astriethanolamine, monovalent metals, such as sodium and potassium, andpolyvalent metal cations, such as magnesium, and calcium.

Preferably, R has from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, more preferablyfrom about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms, even more preferably from about12 to about 14 carbon atoms, in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates.The alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products ofethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 8 to about 24carbon atoms. The alcohols can be synthetic or they can be derived fromfats, e.g., coconut oil, palm kernel oil, tallow. Lauryl alcohol andstraight chain alcohols derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil arepreferred. Such alcohols are reacted with between about 0 and about 10,preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably about 3, molarproportions of ethylene oxide, and the resulting mixture of molecularspecies having, for example, an average of 3 moles of ethylene oxide permole of alcohol, is sulfated and neutralized.

Other suitable anionic detersive surfactants are the water-soluble saltsof organic, sulfuric acid reaction products conforming to the formula[R¹—SO₃-M] where R¹ is a straight or branched chain, saturated,aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24,preferably about 10 to about 18, carbon atoms; and M is a cationdescribed hereinbefore.

Still other suitable anionic detersive surfactants are the reactionproducts of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralizedwith sodium hydroxide where, for example, the fatty acids are derivedfrom coconut oil or palm kernel oil; sodium or potassium salts of fattyacid amides of methyl tauride in which the fatty acids, for example, arederived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. Other similar anionicsurfactants are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,486,921; 2,486,922; and2,396,278.

Other anionic detersive surfactants suitable for use in the compositionsare the succinnates, examples of which include disodiumN-octadecylsulfosuccinnate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; diammoniumlauryl sulfosuccinate; tetrasodiumN-(1,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinnate; diamyl ester ofsodium sulfosuccinic acid; dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid;and dioctyl esters of sodium sulfosuccinic acid.

Other suitable anionic detersive surfactants include olefin sulfonateshaving about 10 to about 24 carbon atoms. In addition to the true alkenesulfonates and a proportion of hydroxy-alkanesulfonates, the olefinsulfonates can contain minor amounts of other materials, such as alkenedisulfonates depending upon the reaction conditions, proportion ofreactants, the nature of the starting olefins and impurities in theolefin stock and side reactions during the sulfonation process. A nonlimiting example of such an alpha-olefin sulfonate mixture is describedin U.S. Pat. No. 3,332,880.

Another class of anionic detersive surfactants suitable for use in thecompositions are the beta-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. These surfactantsconform to the formula

where R¹ is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20carbon atoms, R² is a lower alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3carbon atoms, preferably 1 carbon atom, and M is a water-soluble cationas described hereinbefore.

Preferred anionic detersive surfactants for use in the compositionsinclude ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylaminelauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine laurylsulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine laurylsulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine laurylsulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodiumsulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium laurylsulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodiumlauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, cocoyl sarcosine, ammonium cocoylsulfate, ammonium lauroyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroylsulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate,triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate,monoethanolamine cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodiumtridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodiumcocoyl isethionate and combinations thereof.

Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic detersive surfactants for use in thecomposition herein include those which are known for use in hair care orother personal care cleansing. Concentration of such amphotericdetersive surfactants preferably ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%,preferably from about 1% to about 10%. Non limiting examples of suitablezwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are described in U.S. Pat. No.5,104,646 (Bolich Jr. et al.), U.S. Pat. No. 5,106,609 (Bolich Jr. etal.).

Amphoteric detersive surfactants suitable for use in the composition arewell known in the art, and include those surfactants broadly describedas derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which thealiphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one ofthe aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbonatoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate,sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Preferred amphoteric detersivesurfactants for use in the present invention include cocoamphoacetate,cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, and mixturesthereof.

Zwitterionic detersive surfactants suitable for use in the compositionare well known in the art, and include those surfactants broadlydescribed as derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium,and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals can be straightor branched chain, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituentscontains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains ananionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate orphosphonate. Zwitterionics such as betaines are preferred.

The compositions of the present invention may further compriseadditional surfactants for use in combination with the anionic detersivesurfactant component described hereinbefore. Suitable optionalsurfactants include nonionic and cationic surfactants. Any suchsurfactant known in the art for use in hair or personal care productsmay be used, provided that the optional additional surfactant is alsochemically and physically compatible with the essential components ofthe composition, or does not otherwise unduly impair productperformance, aesthetics or stability. The concentration of the optionaladditional surfactants in the composition may vary with the cleansing orlather performance desired, the optional surfactant selected, thedesired product concentration, the presence of other components in thecomposition, and other factors well known in the art.

Non limiting examples of other anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric oroptional additional surfactants suitable for use in the compositions aredescribed in McCutcheon's, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 1989 Annual,published by M. C. Publishing Co., and U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,929,678,2,658,072; 2,438,091; 2,528,378.

30. Cationic Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can comprise cationic polymer.When included, concentrations of the cationic polymer in the compositioncan typically range from about 0.05% to about 3%, preferably from about0.075% to about 2.0%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.0%.Preferred cationic polymers will have cationic charge densities of atleast about 0.9 meq/gm, preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gm, morepreferably at least about 1.5 meq/gm, but also preferably less thanabout 7 meq/gm, more preferably less than about 5 meq/gm, at the pH ofintended use of the composition, which pH will generally range fromabout pH 3 to about pH 9, preferably between about pH 4 and about pH 8.Herein, “cationic charge density” of a polymer refers to the ratio ofthe number of positive charges on the polymer to the molecular weight ofthe polymer. The average molecular weight of such suitable cationicpolymers will generally be between about 10,000 and 10 million,preferably between about 50,000 and about 5 million, more preferablybetween about 100,000 and about 3 million.

Suitable cationic polymers for use in the compositions of the presentinvention contain cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such asquaternary ammonium or cationic protonated amino moieties. The cationicprotonated amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines(preferably secondary or tertiary), depending upon the particularspecies and the selected pH of the composition. Any anionic counterionscan be used in association with the cationic polymers so long as thepolymers remain soluble in water, in the composition, or in a coacervatephase of the composition, and so long as the counterions are physicallyand chemically compatible with the essential components of thecomposition or do not otherwise unduly impair product performance,stability or aesthetics. Non limiting examples of such counterionsinclude halides (e.g., chloride, fluoride, bromide, iodide), sulfate andmethylsulfate. Non limiting examples of such polymers are described inthe CTFA.

Non limiting examples of suitable cationic polymers include copolymersof vinyl monomers having cationic protonated amine or quaternaryammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such asacrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl anddialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone or vinyl pyrrolidone.

Suitable cationic protonated amino and quaternary ammonium monomers, forinclusion in the cationic polymers of the composition herein, includevinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate,dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate,monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammoniumsalt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammoniumsalts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationicnitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, andquaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinylpyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.

Other suitable cationic polymers for use in the compositions includecopolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt(e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic,Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, “CTFA”, as Polyquaternium-16);copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate(referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11); cationicdiallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example,dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer, copolymers of acrylamideand dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to in the industry byCTFA as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively); amphotericcopolymers of acrylic acid including copolymers of acrylic acid anddimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referred to in the industry by CTFA asPolyquaternium 22), terpolymers of acrylic acid withdimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide (referred to in theindustry by CTFA as Polyquaternium 39), and terpolymers of acrylic acidwith methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methylacrylate(referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium 47). Preferredcationic substituted monomers are the cationic substituteddialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides, andcombinations thereof. These preferred monomers conform the to theformula:

wherein R¹ is hydrogen, methyl or ethyl; each of R², R³ and R⁴ areindependently hydrogen or a short chain alkyl having from about 1 toabout 8 carbon atoms, preferably from about 1 to about 5 carbon atoms,more preferably from about 1 to about 2 carbon atoms; n is an integerhaving a value of from about 1 to about 8, preferably from about 1 toabout 4; and X is a counterion. The nitrogen attached to R², R³ and R⁴may be a protonated amine (primary, secondary or tertiary), but ispreferably a quaternary ammonium wherein each of R², R³ and R⁴ are alkylgroups a non limiting example of which is polymethyacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, available under the trade name Polycare 133, fromRhone-Poulenc, Cranberry, N.J., U.S.A.

Other suitable cationic polymers for use in the composition includepolysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives andcationic starch derivatives. Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymersinclude those which conform to the formula:

wherein A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch orcellulose anhydroglucose residual; R is an alkylene oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof; R1,R2, and R3 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl,alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationicmoiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3) preferably beingabout 20 or less; and X is an anionic counterion as described inhereinbefore.

Preferred cationic cellulose polymers are salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referredto in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10 and available fromAmerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer LR, JR, and KGseries of polymers. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose includesthe polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulosereacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide referred to inthe industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are availablefrom Amerchol Corp. under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives,such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, specific examples of whichinclude the Jaguar series commercially available from Rhone-PoulencIncorporated and the N-Hance series commercially available from AqualonDivision of Hercules, Inc. Other suitable cationic polymers includequaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, some examples of whichare described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,962,418. Other suitable cationicpolymers include copolymers of etherified cellulose, guar and starch,some examples of which are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581. Whenused, the cationic polymers herein are either soluble in the compositionor are soluble in a complex coacervate phase in the composition formedby the cationic polymer and the anionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionicdetersive surfactant component described hereinbefore. Complexcoacervates of the cationic polymer can also be formed with othercharged materials in the composition.

Techniques for analysis of formation of complex coacervates are known inthe art. For example, microscopic analyses of the compositions, at anychosen stage of dilution, can be utilized to identify whether acoacervate phase has formed. Such coacervate phase will be identifiableas an additional emulsified phase in the composition. The use of dyescan aid in distinguishing the coacervate phase from other insolublephases dispersed in the composition.

31. Nonionic Polymers

The compositions herein can comprise nonionic polymers. For instance,polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight of more than about 1000can be used. These can include those having the following generalformula:

wherein R⁹⁵ is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, andmixtures thereof. Preferred polyethylene glycol polymers can includePEG-2M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from UnionCarbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 andPolyox WSR® N-80, available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 andPolyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-750available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M (also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M (also known as Polyox WSR®N-3000 available from Union Carbide).

32. Conditioning Agents

Conditioning agents include any material which is used to give aparticular conditioning benefit to keratinous tissue. For instance, inhair treatment compositions, suitable conditioning agents include thosewhich deliver one or more benefits relating to shine, softness,combability, antistatic properties, wet-handling, damage, manageability,body, and greasiness. Conditioning agents useful in the compositions ofthe present invention can comprise a water insoluble, water dispersible,non-volatile liquid that forms emulsified, liquid particles. Suitableconditioning agents for use in the composition include thoseconditioning agents characterized generally as silicones (e.g., siliconeoils, cationic silicones, silicone gums, high refractive silicones, andsilicone resins), organic conditioning oils (e.g., hydrocarbon oils,polyolefins, and fatty esters) or combinations thereof, or thoseconditioning agents which otherwise form liquid, dispersed particles inthe aqueous surfactant matrix herein.

When included, the concentration of the conditioning agent in thecomposition can be sufficient to provide the desired conditioningbenefits, and as will be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.Such concentration can vary with the conditioning agent, theconditioning performance desired, the average size of the conditioningagent particles, the type and concentration of other components, andother like factors.

a. Silicones

The conditioning agent of the compositions of the present invention ispreferably an insoluble silicone conditioning agent. The siliconeconditioning agent particles may comprise volatile silicone,non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof. Preferred arenon-volatile silicone conditioning agents. If volatile silicones arepresent, it will typically be incidental to their use as a solvent orcarrier for commercially available forms of non-volatile siliconematerials ingredients, such as silicone gums and resins. The siliconeconditioning agent particles may comprise a silicone fluid conditioningagent and may also comprise other ingredients, such as a silicone resinto improve silicone fluid deposition efficiency or enhance glossiness ofthe hair.

The concentration of the silicone conditioning agent typically rangesfrom about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%,more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about0.2% to about 3%. Non-limiting examples of suitable siliconeconditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the silicone,are described in U.S. Reissue Pat. No. 34,584, U.S. Pat. No. 5,104,646,and U.S. Pat. No. 5,106,609. The silicone conditioning agents for use inthe compositions of the present invention preferably have a viscosity,as measured at 25° C., from about 20 to about 2,000,000 centistokes(“csk”), more preferably from about 1,000 to about 1,800,000 csk, evenmore preferably from about 50,000 to about 1,500,000 csk, morepreferably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 csk.

The dispersed silicone conditioning agent particles typically have anumber average particle diameter ranging from about 0.01 μm to about 50μm. For small particle application to hair, the number average particlediameters typically range from about 0.01 μm to about 4 μm, preferablyfrom about 0.01 μm to about 2 μm, more preferably from about 0.01 μm toabout 0.5 μm. For larger particle application to hair, the numberaverage particle diameters typically range from about 4 μm to about 50μm, preferably from about 6 μm to about 30 μm, more preferably fromabout 9 μm to about 20 μm, more preferably from about 12 μm to about 18μm.

Background material on silicones including sections discussing siliconefluids, gums, and resins, as well as manufacture of silicones, are foundin Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, 2d ed., pp204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (1989).

b. Silicone Oils

Silicone fluids include silicone oils, which are flowable siliconematerials having a viscosity, as measured at 25° C., less than 1,000,000csk, preferably from about 5 csk to about 1,000,000 csk, more preferablyfrom about 100 csk to about 600,000 csk. Suitable silicone oils for usein the compositions of the present invention include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other insoluble, non-volatilesilicone fluids having hair conditioning properties may also be used.

Silicone oils include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes which conform tothe following Formula (III):

wherein R is aliphatic, preferably alkyl or alkenyl, or aryl, R can besubstituted or unsubstituted, and x is an integer from 1 to about 8,000.Suitable R groups for use in the compositions of the present inventioninclude, but are not limited to: alkoxy, aryloxy, alkaryl, arylalkyl,arylalkenyl, alkamino, and ether-substituted, hydroxyl-substituted, andhalogen-substituted aliphatic and aryl groups. Suitable R groups alsoinclude cationic amines and quaternary ammonium groups.

Preferred alkyl and alkenyl substituents are C₁ to C₅ alkyls andalkenyls, more preferably from C₁ to C₄, more preferably from C₁ to C₂.The aliphatic portions of other alkyl-, alkenyl-, or alkynyl-containinggroups (such as alkoxy, alkaryl, and alkamino) can be straight orbranched chains, and are preferably from C₁ to C₅, more preferably fromC₁ to C₄, even more preferably from C₁ to C₃, more preferably from C₁ toC₂. As discussed above, the R substituents can also contain aminofunctionalities (e.g. alkamino groups), which can be primary, secondaryor tertiary amines or quaternary ammonium. These include mono-, di- andtri-alkylamino and alkoxyamino groups, wherein the aliphatic portionchain length is preferably as described herein.

c. Amino and Cationic Silicones

Cationic silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention include, but are not limited to, those which conformto the general formula (V):(R₁)_(a)G_(3-a)-Si—(—OSiG₂)_(n)(—OSiG_(b)(R₁)_(2-b)m)—O—SiG_(3-a)(R₁)_(a)wherein G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C₁-C₈ alkyl, preferablymethyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 0; bis 0 or 1, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999, preferably from49 to 499; m is an integer from 1 to 2,000, preferably from 1 to 10; thesum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000, preferably from 50 to 500;R₁ is a monovalent radical conforming to the general formula CqH_(2q)L,wherein q is an integer having a value from 2 to 8 and L is selectedfrom the following groups:—N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—N(R₂)₂—N(R₂)₂—N(R₂)₃A⁻—N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—NR₂H₂A⁻wherein R₂ is hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated hydrocarbonradical, preferably an alkyl radical from about C₁ to about C₂₀, and A⁻is a halide ion.

An especially preferred cationic silicone corresponding to formula (V)is the polymer known as “trimethylsilylamodimethicone”, which is shownbelow in formula (VI):

Other silicone cationic polymers which may be used in the compositionsof the present invention are represented by the general formula (VII):

wherein R³ is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical from C₁ to C₁₈,preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical, such as methyl; R₄ is ahydrocarbon radical, preferably a C₁ to C₁₈ alkylene radical or a C₁₀ toC₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, more preferably a C₁ to C₈ alkyleneoxy radical;Q is a halide ion, preferably chloride; r is an average statisticalvalue from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; s is an average statisticalvalue from 20 to 200, preferably from 20 to 50. A preferred polymer ofthis class is known as UCARE SILICONE ALE 56™, available from UnionCarbide.

d. Silicone Gums

Other silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are the insoluble silicone gums. These gums arepolyorganosiloxane materials having a viscosity, as measured at 25° C.,of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 csk. Silicone gums are describedin U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416; Noll and Walter, Chemistry and Technology ofSilicones, New York: Academic Press (1968); and in General ElectricSilicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.Specific non-limiting examples of silicone gums for use in thecompositions of the present invention include polydimethylsiloxane,(polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,poly(dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl siloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane)copolymer and mixtures thereof.

e. High Refractive Index Silicones

Other non-volatile, insoluble silicone fluid conditioning agents thatare suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention arethose known as “high refractive index silicones,” having a refractiveindex of at least about 1.46, preferably at least about 1.48, morepreferably at least about 1.52, more preferably at least about 1.55. Therefractive index of the polysiloxane fluid will generally be less thanabout 1.70, typically less than about 1.60. In this context,polysiloxane “fluid” includes oils as well as gums.

The high refractive index polysiloxane fluid includes those representedby general Formula (III) above, as well as cyclic polysiloxanes such asthose represented by Formula (VIII) below:

wherein R is as defined above, and n is a number from about 3 to about7, preferably from about 3 to about 5.

The high refractive index polysiloxane fluids contain an amount ofaryl-containing R substituents sufficient to increase the refractiveindex to the desired level, which is described herein. Additionally, Rand n must be selected so that the material is non-volatile.

Aryl-containing substituents include those which contain alicyclic andheterocyclic five and six member aryl rings and those which containfused five or six member rings. The aryl rings themselves can besubstituted or unsubstituted.

Generally, the high refractive index polysiloxane fluids will have adegree of aryl-containing substituents of at least about 15%, preferablyat least about 20%, more preferably at least about 25%, even morepreferably at least about 35%, more preferably at least about 50%.Typically, the degree of aryl substitution will be less than about 90%,more generally less than about 85%, preferably from about 55% to about80%.

Preferred high refractive index polysiloxane fluids have a combinationof phenyl or phenyl derivative substituents (more preferably phenyl),with alkyl substituents, preferably C₁-C₄ alkyl (more preferablymethyl), hydroxy, or C₁-C₄ alkylamino (especially —R¹NHR²NH2 whereineach R¹ and R² independently is a C₁-C₃ alkyl, alkenyl, and/or alkoxy).

When high refractive index silicones are used in the compositions of thepresent invention, they are preferably used in solution with a spreadingagent, such as a silicone resin or a surfactant, to reduce the surfacetension by a sufficient amount to enhance spreading and thereby enhancethe glossiness (subsequent to drying) of hair treated with thecompositions.

Silicone fluids suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 2,826,551, U.S. Pat. No.3,964,500, U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837, British Pat. No. 849,433, andSilicon Compounds, Petrarch Systems, Inc. (1984).

f. Silicone Resins

Silicone resins may be included in the silicone conditioning agent ofthe compositions of the present invention. These resins are highlycross-linked polymeric siloxane systems. The cross-linking is introducedthrough the incorporation of trifunctional and tetrafunctional silaneswith monofunctional or difunctional, or both, silanes during manufactureof the silicone resin.

Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can convenientlybe identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system known tothose of ordinary skill in the art as “MDTQ” nomenclature. Under thissystem, the silicone is described according to presence of varioussiloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol Mdenotes the monofunctional unit (CH₃)₃SiO_(0.5); D denotes thedifunctional unit (CH₃)₂SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit(CH₃)SiO₁₅; and Q denotes the quadra- or tetra-functional unit SiO₂.Primes of the unit symbols (e.g. M′, D′, T′, and Q′) denote substituentsother than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence.

Preferred silicone resins for use in the compositions of the presentinvention include, but are not limited to MQ, MT, MTQ, MDT and MDTQresins. Methyl is a preferred silicone substituent. Especially preferredsilicone resins are MQ resins, wherein the M:Q ratio is from about0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of thesilicone resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.

The weight ratio of the non-volatile silicone fluid, having refractiveindex below 1.46, to the silicone resin component, when used, ispreferably from about 4:1 to about 400:1, more preferably from about 9:1to about 200:1, more preferably from about 19:1 to about 100:1,particularly when the silicone fluid component is a polydimethylsiloxanefluid or a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane fluid andpolydimethylsiloxane gum as described herein. Insofar as the siliconeresin forms a part of the same phase in the compositions hereof as thesilicone fluid, i.e. the conditioning active, the sum of the fluid andresin should be included in determining the level of siliconeconditioning agent in the composition.

33. Organic Conditioning Oils

Compositions of the present invention may also comprise organicconditioning oil. In one embodiment, from about 0.05% to about 3%,preferably from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about0.1% to about 1%, of at least one organic conditioning oil is includedas a conditioning agent, either alone or in combination with otherconditioning agents, such as the silicones (described herein).

a. Hydrocarbon Oils

Suitable organic conditioning oils for use as conditioning agents in thecompositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to,hydrocarbon oils having at least about 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclichydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated orunsaturated), and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated orunsaturated), including polymers and mixtures thereof. Straight chainhydrocarbon oils preferably are from about C₁₂ to about C₁₉. Branchedchain hydrocarbon oils, including hydrocarbon polymers, typically willcontain more than 19 carbon atoms.

Specific non-limiting examples of these hydrocarbon oils includeparaffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturatedand unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane,saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturatedhexadecane, polybutene, polydecene, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chainisomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain lengthhydrocarbons, can also be used, examples of which include highlybranched, saturated or unsaturated, alkanes such as thepermethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., the permethyl-substituted isomersof hexadecane and eicosane, such as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8,8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and 2, 2, 4, 4, 6,6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, available from Permethyl Corporation.Hydrocarbon polymers such as polybutene and polydecene. A preferredhydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer of isobutyleneand butene. A commercially available material of this type is L-14polybutene from Amoco Chemical Corporation. The concentration of suchhydrocarbon oils in the composition preferably range from about 0.05% toabout 20%, more preferably from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, and even morepreferably from about 0.1% to about 1%.

b. Polyolefins

Organic conditioning oils for use in the compositions of the presentinvention can also include liquid polyolefins, more preferably liquidpoly-α-olefins, more preferably hydrogenated liquid poly-α-olefins.Polyolefins for use herein are prepared by polymerization of C₄ to aboutC₁₄ olefenic monomers, preferably from about C₆ to about C₁₂.

Non-limiting examples of olefenic monomers for use in preparing thepolyolefin liquids herein include ethylene, propylene, 1-butene,1-pentene, 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene,branched chain isomers such as 4-methyl-1-pentene, and mixtures thereof.Also suitable for preparing the polyolefin liquids are olefin-containingrefinery feedstocks or effluents. Preferred hydrogenated α-olefinmonomers include, but are not limited to: 1-hexene to 1-hexadecenes,1-octene to 1-tetradecene, and mixtures thereof.

c. Fatty Esters

Other suitable organic conditioning oils for use as the conditioningagent in the compositions of the present invention include, but are notlimited to, fatty esters having at least 10 carbon atoms. These fattyesters include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acidsor alcohols (e.g. mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- andtri-carboxylic acid esters). The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fattyesters hereof may include or have covalently bonded thereto othercompatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g.,ethoxy or ether linkages, etc.).

Specific examples of preferred fatty esters include, but are not limitedto: isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexylpalmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecylstearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate,lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyloleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyladipate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are mono-carboxylic acid esters of the general formula R′COOR,wherein R′ and R are alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and the sum of carbonatoms in R′ and R is at least 10, preferably at least 22.

Still other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are di- and tri-alkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylicacids, such as esters of C₄ to C₈ dicarboxylic acids (e.g. C₁ to C₂₂esters, preferably C₁ to C₆, of succinic acid, glutaric acid, and adipicacid). Specific non-limiting examples of di- and tri-alkyl and alkenylesters of carboxylic acids include isocetyl stearyol stearate,diisopropyl adipate, and tristearyl citrate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are those known as polyhydric alcohol esters. Such polyhydricalcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, such as ethylene glycolmono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acidesters, polyethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propyleneglycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate,polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycolmonostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerolpoly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butyleneglycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylenepolyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylenesorbitan fatty acid esters.

Still other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of thepresent invention are glycerides, including, but not limited to, mono-,di-, and tri-glycerides, preferably di- and tri-glycerides, morepreferably triglycerides. For use in the compositions described herein,the glycerides are preferably the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glyceroland long chain carboxylic acids, such as C₁₀ to C₂₂ carboxylic acids. Avariety of these types of materials can be obtained from vegetable andanimal fats and oils, such as castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil,corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil,sesame oil, lanolin and soybean oil. Synthetic oils include, but are notlimited to, triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.

Other fatty esters suitable for use in the compositions of the presentinvention are water insoluble synthetic fatty esters. Some preferredsynthetic esters conform to the general Formula (IX):

wherein R¹ is a C₇ to C₉ alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or hydroxyalkenylgroup, preferably a saturated alkyl group, more preferably a saturated,linear, alkyl group; n is a positive integer having a value from 2 to 4,preferably 3; and Y is an alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy or carboxy substitutedalkyl or alkenyl, having from about 2 to about 20 carbon atoms,preferably from about 3 to about 14 carbon atoms. Other preferredsynthetic esters conform to the general Formula (X):

wherein R² is a C₈ to C₁₀ alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or hydroxyalkenylgroup; preferably a saturated alkyl group, more preferably a saturated,linear, alkyl group; n and Y are as defined above in Formula (X).

Specific non-limiting examples of suitable synthetic fatty esters foruse in the compositions of the present invention include: P-43 (C₈-C₁₀triester of trimethylolpropane), MCP-684 (tetraester of 3,3diethanol-1,5 pentadiol), MCP 121 (C₈-C₁₀ diester of adipic acid), allof which are available from Mobil Chemical Company.

34. Other Conditioning Agents

Also suitable for use in the compositions herein are the conditioningagents described by the Procter & Gamble Company in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,674,478, and 5,750,122. Also suitable for use herein are thoseconditioning agents described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,529,586 (Clairol), U.S.Pat. No. 4,507,280 (Clairol), U.S. Pat. No. 4,663,158 (Clairol), U.S.Pat. No. 4,197,865 (L'Oreal), U.S. Pat. No. 4,217,914 (L'Oreal), U.S.Pat. No. 4,381,919 (L'Oreal), and U.S. Pat. No. 4,422,853 (L'Oreal).

35. Anti-Dandruff Actives

The compositions of the present invention may also contain ananti-dandruff agent. Suitable, non-limiting examples of anti-dandruffparticulates include: pyridinethione salts, azoles, selenium sulfide,particulate sulfur, and mixtures thereof. Preferred are pyridinethionesalts.

Pyridinethione anti-dandruff particulates, especially1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts, are highly preferred particulateanti-dandruff agents for use in compositions of the present invention.The concentration of pyridinethione anti-dandruff particulate typicallyranges from about 0.1% to about 4%, by weight of the composition,preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.3%to about 2%. Preferred pyridinethione salts include those formed fromheavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum andzirconium, preferably zinc, more preferably the zinc salt of1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as “zinc pyridinethione” or “ZPT”),more preferably 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts in platelet particleform, wherein the particles have an average size of up to about 20μ,preferably up to about 5μ, more preferably up to about 2.5μ. Saltsformed from other cations, such as sodium, may also be suitable.Pyridinethione anti-dandruff agents are described, for example, in U.S.Pat. No. 2,809,971; U.S. Pat. No. 3,236,733; U.S. Pat. No. 3,753,196;U.S. Pat. No. 3,761,418; U.S. Pat. No. 4,345,080; U.S. Pat. No.4,323,683; U.S. Pat. No. 4,379,753; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,470,982. It iscontemplated that when ZPT is used as the anti-dandruff particulate inthe compositions herein, that the growth or re-growth of hair may bestimulated or regulated, or both, or that hair loss may be reduced orinhibited, or that hair may appear thicker or fuller.

36. Other Anti-Microbial Actives

The present invention can comprise one or more anti-fungal oranti-microbial actives. Suitable anti-microbial actives include coaltar, sulfur, whitfield's ointment, castellani's paint, aluminumchloride, gentian violet, octopirox (piroctone olamine),3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and it's metal salts, potassium permanganate,selenium sulphide, sodium thiosulfate, propylene glycol, oil of bitterorange, urea preparations, griseofulvin, 8-Hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol,thiobendazole, thiocarbamates, haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone,morpholine, benzylamine, allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea treeoil, clove leaf oil, coriander, palmarosa, berberine, thyme red,cinnamon oil, cinnamic aldehyde, citronellic acid, hinokitol, ichthyolpale, Sensiva SC-50, Elestab HP-100, azelaic acid, lyticase,iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), isothiazalinones such as octylisothiazalinone and azoles, and combinations thereof. Preferredanti-microbials include itraconazole, ketoconazole, selenium sulphideand coal tar. In one embodiment, one or more anti-fungal oranti-microbial active is combined with an anti-dandruff active selectedfrom polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione.

a. Azoles

Azole anti-microbials include imidazoles such as benzimidazole,benzothiazole, bifonazole, butaconazole nitrate, climbazole,clotrimazole, croconazole, eberconazole, econazole, elubiol,fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole,lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole,oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole,thiazole, and triazoles such as terconazole and itraconazole, andcombinations thereof. When present in the composition, the azoleanti-microbial active is included in an amount from about 0.01% to about5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and more preferably fromabout 0.3% to about 2%, by weight of the composition. Especiallypreferred herein are ketoconazole and climbazole.

b. Selenium Sulfide

Selenium sulfide is a particulate anti-dandruff agent suitable for usein the anti-microbial compositions of the present invention, effectiveconcentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 4%, by weight ofthe composition, preferably from about 0.3% to about 2.5%, morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 1.5%. Selenium sulfide is generallyregarded as a compound having one mole of selenium and two moles ofsulfur, although it may also be a cyclic structure that conforms to thegeneral formula Se_(x)S_(y), wherein x+y=8. Average particle diametersfor the selenium sulfide are typically less than 15 μm, as measured byforward laser light scattering device (e.g. Malvern 3600 instrument),preferably less than 10 μm. Selenium sulfide compounds are described,for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,694,668; U.S. Pat. No. 3,152,046; U.S.Pat. No. 4,089,945; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,885,107.

c. Sulfur

Sulfur may also be used as a particulate anti-microbial/anti-dandruffagent in the anti-microbial compositions of the present invention.Effective concentrations of the particulate sulfur are typically fromabout 1% to about 4%, by weight of the composition, preferably fromabout 2% to about 4%.

d. Keratolytic Agents

The present invention may further comprise one or more keratolyticagents such as Salicylic Acid.

e. Additional Anti-Microbial Actives

Additional anti-microbial actives of the present invention may includeextracts of melaleuca (tea tree) and charcoal. The present invention mayalso comprise combinations of anti-microbial actives. Such combinationsmay include octopirox and zinc pyrithione combinations, pine tar andsulfur combinations, salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione combinations,octopirox and climbasole combinations, and salicylic acid and octopiroxcombinations, and mixtures thereof.

37. Humectant

The compositions of the present invention may contain a humectant.Humectants can be selected from the group consisting of polyhydricalcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixturesthereof. Humectants, when used herein, are preferably used at levels offrom about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about5%.

Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, sorbitol, propyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1,2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose,diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate,sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, andmixtures thereof.

Water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein includepolyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weightof up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400,PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.

38. Suspending Agent

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise asuspending agent, preferably at concentrations effective for suspendingwater-insoluble material in dispersed form in the compositions or formodifying the viscosity of the composition. Such concentrations canpreferably range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably fromabout 0.3% to about 5.0%.

Suspending agents useful herein include anionic polymers and nonionicpolymers. Useful herein are vinyl polymers such as cross linked acrylicacid polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer, cellulose derivatives andmodified cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose,hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose,sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystallinecellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol,guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabia gum, tragacanth,galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carragheenin, pectin, agar,quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat),algae colloids (algae extract), microbiological polymers such asdextran, succinoglucan, pulleran, starch-based polymers such ascarboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-basedpolymers such as sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol esters,acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate,polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, and inorganic water soluble materialsuch as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, andanhydrous silicic acid.

Commercially available viscosity modifiers highly useful herein includeCarbomers with tradenames Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950,Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981, all available from B. F. GoodrichCompany, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer with tradenameACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass, nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulosewith tradename AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol,methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose withtradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied byHercules, ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers withtradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied byAmerchol.

Other optional suspending agents include crystalline suspending agentswhich can be categorized as acyl derivatives, long chain amine oxides,and mixtures thereof. These suspending agents are described in U.S. Pat.No. 4,741,855. These preferred suspending agents include ethylene glycolesters of fatty acids preferably having from about 16 to about 22 carbonatoms. More preferred are the ethylene glycol stearates, both mono anddistearate, but particularly the distearate containing less than about7% of the mono stearate. Other suitable suspending agents includealkanol amides of fatty acids, preferably having from about 16 to about22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 to 18 carbon atoms, preferredexamples of which include stearic monoethanolamide, stearicdiethanolamide, stearic monoisopropanolamide and stearicmonoethanolamide stearate. Other long chain acyl derivatives includelong chain esters of long chain fatty acids (e.g., stearyl stearate,cetyl palmitate, etc.); long chain esters of long chain alkanol amides(e.g., stearamide diethanolamide distearate, stearamide monoethanolamidestearate); and glyceryl esters (e.g., glyceryl distearate,trihydroxystearin, tribehenin) a commercial example of which is Thixin Ravailable from Rheox, Inc. Long chain acyl derivatives, ethylene glycolesters of long chain carboxylic acids, long chain amine oxides, andalkanol amides of long chain carboxylic acids in addition to thepreferred materials listed above may be used as suspending agents.

Other long chain acyl derivatives suitable for use as suspending agentsinclude N,N-dihydrocarbyl amido benzoic acid and soluble salts thereof(e.g., Na, K), particularly N,N-di(hydrogenated) C.sub.16, C.sub.18 andtallow amido benzoic acid species of this family, which are commerciallyavailable from Stepan Company (Northfield, Ill., USA).

Examples of suitable long chain amine oxides for use as suspendingagents include alkyl dimethyl amine oxides, e.g., stearyl dimethyl amineoxide.

Other suitable suspending agents include primary amines having a fattyalkyl moiety having at least about 16 carbon atoms, examples of whichinclude palmitamine or stearamine, and secondary amines having two fattyalkyl moieties each having at least about 12 carbon atoms, examples ofwhich include dipalmitoylamine or di(hydrogenated tallow)amine Stillother suitable suspending agents include di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalicacid amide, and crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ethercopolymer.

39. Terpene Alcohol

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a terpene alcoholor combinations of terpene alcohols. As used herein, “terpene alcohol”refers to organic compounds composed of two or more 5-carbon isopreneunits [CH₂═C(CH₃)—CH═CH₂] with a terminal hydroxyl group. Preferably,the composition can comprise from about 0.001% to about 50%, preferablyfrom about 0.01% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, still more preferablyfrom about 1% to about 3%, by weight of the composition, of the terpenealcohol.

Examples of terpene alcohols that can be useful herein include farnesol,derivatives of farnesol, isomers of farnesol, geraniol, derivatives ofgeraniol, isomers of geraniol, phytantriol, derivatives of phytantriol,isomers of phytantriol, and mixtures thereof. A preferred terpenealcohol for use herein is farnesol.

a. Farnesol and Derivatives Thereof

Farnesol is a naturally occurring substance which is believed to act asa precursor and/or intermediate in the biosynthesis of squalene andsterols, especially cholesterol. Farnesol is also involved in proteinmodification and regulation (e.g., farnesylation of proteins), and thereis a cell nuclear receptor which is responsive to farnesol.

Chemically, farnesol is [2E,6E]-3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-oland as used herein “farnesol” includes isomers and tautomers of such.Farnesol is commercially available, e.g., under the names farnesol (amixture of isomers from Dragoco, 10 Gordon Drive, Totowa, N.J.) andtrans-trans-farnesol (Sigma Chemical Company, P. O. Box 14508, St.Louis, Mo.). A suitable derivative of farnesol is farnesyl acetate whichis commercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company, P. O. Box 2060,Milwaukee, Wis.

b. Geraniol and Derivatives Thereof

Geraniol is the common name for the chemical known as3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol. As used herein, “geraniol” includesisomers and tautomers of such. Geraniol is commercially available fromAldrich Chemical Company (P. O. Box 2060, Milwaukee, Wis.). Suitablederivatives of geraniol include geranyl acetate, geranylgeraniol,geranyl pyrophosphate, and geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate, all of whichare commercially available from Sigma Chemical Company, P. O. Box 14508,St. Louis, Mo. For example, geraniol is useful as a spider vessel/redblotchiness repair agent, a dark circle/puffy eye repair agent,sallowness repair agent, a sagging repair agent, an anti-itch agent, askin thickening agent, a pore reduction agent, oil/shine reductionagent, a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation repair agent, woundtreating agent, an anti-cellulite agent, and regulating skin texture,including wrinkles and fine lines.

c. Phytantriol and Derivatives Thereof

Phytantriol is the common name for the chemical known as3,7,11,15,tetramethylhexadecane-1,2,3,-triol. Phytantriol iscommercially available from BASF (1609 Biddle Avenue, Whyandotte,Mich.). For example, phytantriol is useful as a spider vessel/redblotchiness repair agent, a dark circle/puffy eye repair agent,sallowness repair agent, a sagging repair agent, an anti-itch agent, askin thickening agent, a pore reduction agent, oil/shine reductionagent, a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation repair agent, woundtreating agent, an anti-cellulite agent, and regulating skin texture,including wrinkles and fine lines.

IV. Carrier

The compositions of the present invention can comprise an orally or adermatologically acceptable carrier, or injectible liquid, dependingupon the desired product form.

a. Dermatologically Acceptable Carrier

The topical compositions of the present invention can also comprise adermatologically acceptable carrier for the composition. In oneembodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about99.99%, preferably from about 60% to about 99.9%, more preferably fromabout 70% to about 98%, and even more preferably from about 80% to about95%, by weight of the composition.

The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms. Non-limiting examplesinclude simple solutions (water or oil based), emulsions, and solidforms (gels, sticks). For example, emulsion carriers can include, butare not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-silicone,water-in-oil-in-water, and oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions.

Depending upon the desired product form, preferred carriers can comprisean emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions (e.g., silicone in water) andwater-in-oil emulsions, (e.g., water-in-silicone emulsions). As will beunderstood by the skilled artisan, a given component will distributeprimarily into either the water or oil phase, depending on the watersolubility/dispensability of the component in the composition. In oneembodiment, oil-in-water emulsions are especially preferred.

Emulsions according to the present invention can contain an aqueousphase and a lipid or oil. Lipids and oils may be derived from animals,plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (i.e., man-made).Preferred emulsions can also contain a humectant, such as glycerin.Emulsions can further comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, of an emulsifier, based on theweight of the composition. Emulsifiers may be nonionic, anionic orcationic. Suitable emulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat.No. 3,755,560, U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769, and McCutcheon's Detergents andEmulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 317-324 (1986). Suitableemulsions may have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the desiredproduct form.

The compositions of the present invention can be in the form of pourableliquids (under ambient conditions). The compositions can thereforecomprise an aqueous carrier, which is typically present at a level offrom about 20% to about 95%, preferably from about 60% to about 85%. Theaqueous carrier may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water andorganic solvent, but preferably comprises water with minimal or nosignificant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwiseincidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients ofother essential or optional components.

Preferred water-in-silicone and oil-in-water emulsions are described ingreater detail below.

A. Water-in-Silicone Emulsion

Water-in-silicone emulsions contain a continuous silicone phase and adispersed aqueous phase.

(1) Continuous Silicone Phase

Preferred water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention containfrom about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 5% to about 40%, morepreferably from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of a continuoussilicone phase. The continuous silicone phase exists as an externalphase that contains or surrounds the discontinuous aqueous phasedescribed hereinafter.

The continuous silicone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil. Apreferred water-in-silicone emulsion system is formulated to provide anoxidatively stable vehicle for the retinoid. The continuous siliconephase of these preferred emulsions contain between about 50% and about99.9% by weight of organopolysiloxane oil and less than about 50% byweight of a non-silicone oil. In an especially preferred embodiment, thecontinuous silicone phase contains at least about 50%, preferably fromabout 60% to about 99.9%, more preferably from about 70% to about 99.9%,and even more preferably from about 80% to about 99.9%,polyorganosiloxane oil by weight of the continuous silicone phase, andup to about 50% non-silicone oils, preferably less about 40%, morepreferably less than about 30%, even more preferably less than about10%, and even more preferably less than about 2%, by weight of thecontinuous silicone phase. These preferred emulsion systems provide moreoxidative stability to the retinoid over extended periods of time thancomparable water-in-oil emulsions containing lower concentrations of thepolyorganosiloxane oil. Concentrations of non-silicone oils in thecontinuous silicone phase are minimized or avoided altogether so as tofurther enhance oxidative stability of the selected retinoid in thecompositions. Water-in-silicone emulsions of this type are described inPCT Application WO 97/21423, published Jun. 19, 1997.

The organopolysiloxane oil for use in the composition may be volatile,non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. Theterm “nonvolatile” as used in this context refers to those siliconesthat are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (underone atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100° C. The term“volatile” as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils.Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety ofsilicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities.Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes,cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein includepolyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000centistokes at 25° C. Such polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by thegeneral chemical formula R₃SiO[R₂SiO]_(x)SiR₃ wherein R is an alkylgroup having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methylor ethyl, more preferably methyl; also mixed alkyl groups can be used inthe same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosento achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include thepolydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples ofwhich include the Vicasil® series sold by General Electric Company andthe Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specificexamples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100°C., Dow Corning® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and aboiling point greater than 200° C., and Dow Corning® 200 fluids havingviscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, andboiling points greater than 200° C. Suitable dimethicones include thoserepresented by the chemical formula(CH₃)₃SiO[CH₃)₂SiO]_(x)[CH₃RSiO]_(y)Si(CH₃)₃ wherein R is straight orbranched chain alkyl having from two to about 30 carbon atoms and x andy are each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desiredmolecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000. Examples ofthese alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone andlauryl dimethicone.

Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition includethose represented by the chemical formula [SiR₂—O]_(n) wherein R is analkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl)and n is an integer from about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is aninteger from about 3 to about 7, and still more preferably n is aninteger from about 4 to about 6. When R is methyl, these materials aretypically referred to as cyclomethicones. Commercially availablecyclomethicones include Dow Corning® 244 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5centistokes, and a boiling point of 172° C., which primarily containsthe cyclomethicone tetramer (i.e. n=4), Dow Corning® 344 fluid having aviscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178° C., whichprimarily contains the cyclomethicone pentamer (i.e. n=5), Dow Corning®245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling point of205° C., which primarily contains a mixture of the cyclomethiconetetramer and pentamer (i.e. n=4 and 5), and Dow Corning® 345 fluidhaving a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217°, whichprimarily contains a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer, pentamer,and hexamer (i.e. n=4, 5, and 6).

Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is apolymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula[(CH₂)₃SiO_(1/2)]_(x)[SiO₂]_(y), wherein x is an integer from about 1 toabout 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about 500. A commerciallyavailable trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethiconeas Dow Corning® 593 fluid.

Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. Thesecompounds can be represented by the chemical formulasR₃SiO[R₂SiO]_(x)SiR₂OH and HOR₂SiO[R₂SiO]_(x)SiR₂OH wherein R is analkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl)and x is an integer from 0 to about 500, chosen to achieve the desiredmolecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typicallysold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning®1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition.Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 15 to about 65centistokes at 25° C. are especially useful.

Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected frompolyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones,trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, andmixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanesand cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes aredimethicones.

As stated above, the continuous silicone phase may contain one or morenon-silicone oils. Concentrations of non-silicone oils in the continuoussilicone phase are preferably minimized or avoided altogether so as tofurther enhance oxidative stability of the selected retinoid in thecompositions. Suitable non-silicone oils have a melting point of about25° C. or less under about one atmosphere of pressure. Examples ofnon-silicone oils suitable for use in the continuous silicone phase arethose well known in the chemical arts in topical personal care productsin the form of water-in-oil emulsions, e.g., mineral oil, vegetableoils, synthetic oils, semisynthetic oils, etc.

(2) Dispersed Aqueous Phase

The topical compositions of the present invention contain from about 30%to about 90%, more preferably from about 50% to about 85%, and stillmore preferably from about 70% to about 80% of a dispersed aqueousphase. In emulsion technology, the term “dispersed phase” is a termwell-known to one skilled in the art which means that the phase existsas small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by acontinuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal ordiscontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion ofsmall aqueous particles or droplets suspended in and surrounded by thecontinuous silicone phase described hereinbefore.

The aqueous phase can be water, or a combination of water and one ormore water soluble or dispersible ingredients. Nonlimiting examples ofsuch ingredients include thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelants,gums, water-soluble or dispersible alcohols and polyols, buffers,preservatives, sunscreening agents, colorings, and the like.

The topical compositions of the present invention will typically containfrom about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%,more preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water in the dispersedaqueous phase by weight of the composition.

(3) Emulsifier for Dispersing the Aqueous Phase

The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention preferablycontain an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the compositioncontains from about 0.1% to about 10% emulsifier, more preferably fromabout 0.5% to about 7.5%, still more preferably from about 1% to about5%, emulsifier by weight of the composition. The emulsifier helpsdisperse and suspend the aqueous phase within the continuous siliconephase.

A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be employed herein to form thepreferred water-in-silicone emulsion. Known or conventional emulsifyingagents can be used in the composition, provided that the selectedemulsifying agent is chemically and physically compatible withcomponents of the composition of the present invention, and provides thedesired dispersion characteristics. Suitable emulsifiers includesilicone emulsifiers, non-silicon-containing emulsifiers, and mixturesthereof, known by those skilled in the art for use in topical personalcare products. Preferably these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or lessthan about 14, more preferably from about 2 to about 14, and still morepreferably from about 4 to about 14. Emulsifiers having an HLB valueoutside of these ranges can be used in combination with otheremulsifiers to achieve an effective weighted average HLB for thecombination that falls within these ranges.

Silicone emulsifiers are preferred. A wide variety of siliconeemulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typicallyorganically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled inthe art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers includedimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethyl siloxanes whichhave been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethyleneoxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, andpolyether chains containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxideand propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethiconecopolyols, i.e., compounds which contain C2-C30 pendant side chains.Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials havingvarious cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendantmoieties.

The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein can be described bythe following general structure:

wherein R is C1-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl and R² isselected from the group consisting of—(CH₂)_(n)—O—(CH₂CHR³O)_(m)—H,and—(CH₂)_(n)—O—(CH₂CHR³O)_(m)—(CH₂CHR⁴O)_(o)—H,wherein n is an integer from 3 to about 10; R³ and R⁴ are selected fromthe group consisting of H and C1-C6 straight or branched chain alkylsuch that R³ and R⁴ are not simultaneously the same; and m, o, x, and yare selected such that the molecule has an overall molecular weight fromabout 200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, and y being independentlyselected from integers of zero or greater such that m and o are not bothsimultaneously zero, and z being independently selected from integers of1 or greater. It is recognized that positional isomers of thesecopolyols can be achieved. The chemical representations depicted abovefor the R² moieties containing the R³ and R⁴ groups are not meant to belimiting but are shown as such for convenience.

Also useful herein, although not strictly classified as dimethiconecopolyols, are silicone surfactants as depicted in the structures in theprevious paragraph wherein R² is:—(CH₂)_(n)—O—R⁵,wherein R⁵ is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic moiety.

Nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other siliconesurfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polydimethylsiloxanepolyether copolymers with pendant polyethylene oxide sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polypropyleneoxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendantmixed polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixedpoly(ethylene)(propylene)oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxanepolyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine sidechains,polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylatesidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendantquaternary ammonium sidechains; and also further modifications of thepreceding copolymers containing pendant C2-C30 straight, branched, orcyclic alkyl moieties. Examples of commercially available dimethiconecopolyols useful herein sold by Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning®190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 fluid, and 3225C (this latermaterial being sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone). Cetyl dimethiconecopolyol is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the tradename ABIL®WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is alsocommercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and)polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyl dimethicone and is sold under thetradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Othernonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryldimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, diemethiconecopolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyolbehenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyollaurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyolphosphate, and dimethicone copolyol stearate. See International CosmeticIngredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993.

Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, forexample, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,960,764, to Figueroa, Jr. et al., issuedOct. 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, to SanoGueira, publishedAug. 30, 1989; G. H. Dahms, et al., “New Formulation PossibilitiesOffered by Silicone Copolyols,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 110, pp.91-100, March 1995; M. E. Carlotti et al., “Optimization of W/O—SEmulsions And Study Of The Quantitative Relationships Between EsterStructure And Emulsion Properties,” J. Dispersion Science AndTechnology, 13(3), 315-336 (1992); P. Hameyer, “ComparativeTechnological Investigations of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiersin Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsion Preparations,” HAPPI 28(4), pp. 88-128(1991); J. Smid-Korbar et al., “Efficiency and usability of siliconesurfactants in emulsions,” Provisional Communication, InternationalJournal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and D. G. Krzysik etal., “A New Silicone Emulsifier For Water-in-Oil Systems,” Drug andCosmetic Industry, vol. 146(4) pp. 28-81 (April 1990).

Among the non-silicone-containing emulsifiers useful herein are variousnon-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters andpolyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acidesters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30 fattyacid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fattyalcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 esters ofpolyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylenefatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, andmixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are described, for example,in McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition(1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Pat. No.5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., issued Apr. 30, 1991; U.S. Pat. No.4,421,769 to Dixon et al., issued Dec. 20, 1983; and U.S. Pat. No.3,755,560 to Dickert et al., issued Aug. 28, 1973.

Nonlimiting examples of these non-silicon-containing emulsifiersinclude: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate,polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methylglucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

B. Oil-in-Water Emulsions

Other preferred topical carriers include oil-in-water emulsions, havinga continuous aqueous phase and a hydrophobic, water-insoluble phase(“oil phase”) dispersed therein. Examples of suitable oil-in-wateremulsion carriers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371, to Turner,D. J. et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, toTurner, D. J. et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991. An especially preferredoil-in-water emulsion, containing a structuring agent, hydrophilicsurfactant and water, is described in detail hereinafter.

(1) Structuring Agent

A preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains a structuring agent to assistin the formation of a liquid crystalline gel network structure. Withoutbeing limited by theory, it is believed that the structuring agentassists in providing rheological characteristics to the compositionwhich contribute to the stability of the composition. The structuringagent may also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Preferredcompositions of this invention contain from about 0.5% to about 20%,more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, even more preferably fromabout 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a structuringagent.

The preferred structuring agents of the present invention includestearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether ofstearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxideunits, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Morepreferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected fromstearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycolether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxideunits (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcoholhaving an average of about 21 ethylene oxide units (steareth-21), thepolyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferredstructuring agents are selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2,steareth-21, and mixtures thereof.

(2) Hydrophilic Surfactant

The preferred oil-in-water emulsions contain from about 0.05% to about10%, preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably fromabout 1% to about 3% of at least one hydrophilic surfactant which candisperse the hydrophobic materials in the water phase (percentages byweight of the topical carrier). The surfactant, at a minimum, must behydrophilic enough to disperse in water.

Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionicsurfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants that are useful herein arethose that can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chainalcohols, e.g. C8-30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers, i.e.,glycosides. These compounds can be represented by the formula(S)_(n)—O—R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose,mannose, and galactose; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000,and R is a C8-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from whichthe alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, andthe like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those whereinS is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer offrom about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of thesesurfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS fromHenkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CSfrom Henkel).

Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products ofalkylene oxides with fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide esters of fattyacids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_(n)OH wherein Ris a C10-30 alkyl group, X is —OCH₂CH₂— (i.e. derived from ethyleneglycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃— (i.e. derived from propylene glycol oroxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 200. Other nonionicsurfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2moles of fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids).These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_(n)OOCR wherein R is aC10-30 alkyl group, X is —OCH₂CH₂— (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol oroxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃— (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), andn is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Other nonionic surfactantsare the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols(i.e. alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols). These materials have thegeneral formula R(X)_(n)OR′ wherein R is a C10-30 alkyl group, X is—OCH₂CH₂— (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃—(i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer fromabout 6 to about 100 and R′ is H or a C10-30 alkyl group. Still othernonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxideswith both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. wherein the polyalkyleneoxide portion is esterified on one end with a fatty acid and etherified(i.e. connected via an ether linkage) on the other end with a fattyalcohol]. These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_(n)OR′ whereinR and R′ are C10-30 alkyl groups, X is —OCH₂CH₂ (i.e. derived fromethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃— (derived from propylene glycolor oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Nonlimitingexamples of these alkylene oxide derived nonionic surfactants includeceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12,steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-21, PEG-6 stearate,PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glycerylstearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate,PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.

Still other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acidamide surfactants corresponding to the structural formula:

wherein: R¹ is H, C₁-C₄ alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxy-propyl,preferably C₁-C₄ alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, most preferablymethyl; R² is C₅-C₃₁ alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C₇-C₁₉ alkyl oralkenyl, more preferably C₉-C₁₇ alkyl or alkenyl, most preferablyC₁₁-C₁₅ alkyl or alkenyl; and Z is a polhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety havinga linear hydrocarbyl chain with a least 3 hydroxyls directly connectedto the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated orpropoxylated) thereof. Z preferably is a sugar moiety selected from thegroup consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose,mannose, xylose, and mixtures thereof. An especially preferredsurfactant corresponding to the above structure is coconut alkylN-methyl glucoside amide (i.e., wherein the R²CO— moiety is derived fromcoconut oil fatty acids). Processes for making compositions containingpolyhydroxy fatty acid amides are disclosed, for example, in G.B. PatentSpecification 809,060, published Feb. 18, 1959, by Thomas Hedley & Co.,Ltd.; U.S. Pat. No. 2,965,576, to E. R. Wilson, issued Dec. 20, 1960;U.S. Pat. No. 2,703,798, to A. M. Schwartz, issued Mar. 8, 1955; andU.S. Pat. No. 1,985,424, to Piggott, issued Dec. 25, 1934.

Preferred among the nonionic surfactants are those selected from thegroup consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrosecocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar estersand polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fattyacid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 estersof polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylenefatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixturesthereof. Nonlimiting examples of these emulsifiers include: polyethyleneglycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose etherdistearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetylphosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glycerylstearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85),sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate,polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose etherdistearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Another group of non-ionic surfactants useful herein are fatty acidester blends based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid esterand sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance beingpreferably C₈-C₂₄, more preferably C₁₀-C₂₀. The preferred fatty acidester emulsifier is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty acidester with sucrose C₁₀-C₁₆ fatty acid ester, especially sorbitanstearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICIunder the trade name Arlatone 2121.

Other suitable surfactants useful herein include a wide variety ofcationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants such as areknown in the art and discussed more fully below. See, e.g.,McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986),published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681 toCiotti et al., issued Apr. 30, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769 to Dixon etal., issued Dec. 20, 1983; and U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560 to Dickert etal., issued Aug. 28, 1973. The hydrophilic surfactants useful herein cancontain a single surfactant, or any combination of suitable surfactants.The exact surfactant (or surfactants) chosen will depend upon the pH ofthe composition and the other components present.

Also useful herein are cationic surfactants, especially dialkylquaternary ammonium compounds, examples of which are described in U.S.Pat. No. 5,151,209; U.S. Pat. No. 5,151,210; U.S. Pat. No. 5,120,532;U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090; U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,591; U.S. Pat. No.3,929,678; U.S. Pat. No. 3,959,461; McCutcheon's, Detergents &Emulsifiers, (North American edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co.; andSchwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology,New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949. The cationic surfactants usefulherein include cationic ammonium salts such as those having the formula:

wherein R₁, is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbonatoms, or an aromatic, aryl or alkaryl group having from about 12 toabout 30 carbon atoms; R₂, R₃, and R₄ are independently selected fromhydrogen, an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms,or aromatic, aryl or alkaryl groups having from about 12 to about 22carbon atoms; and X is any compatible anion, preferably selected fromchloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, methylsulfate, ethyl sulfate, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate, andmixtures thereof. Additionally, the alkyl groups of R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄can also contain ester and/or ether linkages, or hydroxy or amino groupsubstituents (e.g., the alkyl groups can contain polyethylene glycol andpolypropylene glycol moieties).

More preferably, R₁ is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22carbon atoms; R₂ is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about1 to about 22 carbon atoms; R₃ and R₄ are independently selected from Hor an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X isas described previously.

Still more preferably, R₁ is an alkyl group having from about 12 toabout 22 carbon atoms; R₂, R₃, and R₄ are selected from H or an alkylgroup having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as describedpreviously.

Alternatively, other useful cationic emulsifiers include amino-amides,wherein in the above structure R₁ is alternatively R₅CONH—(CH₂)_(n),wherein R₅ is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbonatoms, and n is an integer from about 2 to about 6, more preferably fromabout 2 to about 4, and still more preferably from about 2 to about 3.Nonlimiting examples of these cationic emulsifiers includestearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, behenamidopropyl PGdimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate,stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate,and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is behenamidopropyl PGdimonium chloride.

Nonlimiting examples of quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactantsinclude those selected from cetyl ammonium chloride, cetyl ammoniumbromide, lauryl ammonium chloride, lauryl ammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, stearyl ammonium bromide, cetyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, cetyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, lauryl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl dimethyl cetyl ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride,dicetyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl ammoniumchloride, dilauryl ammonium bromide, distearyl ammonium chloride,distearyl ammonium bromide, dicetyl methyl ammonium chloride, dicetylmethyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl methyl ammonium chloride, dilaurylmethyl ammonium bromide, distearyl methyl ammonium chloride, distearylmethyl ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof. Additional quaternaryammonium salts include those wherein the C₁₂ to C₃₀ alkyl carbon chainis derived from a tallow fatty acid or from a coconut fatty acid. Theterm “tallow” refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids(usually hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which generally have mixturesof alkyl chains in the C₁₆ to C₁₈ range. The term “coconut” refers to analkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which generally havemixtures of alkyl chains in the C₁₂ to C₁₄ range. Examples of quaternaryammonium salts derived from these tallow and coconut sources includeditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow dimethyl ammonium methylsulfate, di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride,di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium acetate, ditallow dipropylammonium phosphate, ditallow dimethyl ammonium nitrate,di(coconutalkyl)dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(coconutalkyl)dimethylammonium bromide, tallow ammonium chloride, coconut ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate,stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof. An example of a quaternaryammonium compound having an alkyl group with an ester linkage isditallowyl oxyethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

More preferred cationic surfactants are those selected frombehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimyristyl dimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldiammonium ethosulfate,stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate,and mixtures thereof.

Still more preferred cationic surfactants are those selected frombehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimyristyl dimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixturesthereof.

A preferred combination of cationic surfactant and structuring agent isbehenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride and/or behenyl alcohol, whereinthe ratio is preferably optimized to maintained to enhance physical andchemical stability, especially when such a combination contains ionicand/or highly polar solvents. This combination is especially useful fordelivery of sunscreening agents such as zinc oxide and octylmethoxycinnamate.

A wide variety of anionic surfactants can also be useful herein. See,e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,678, to Laughlin et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975.Nonlimiting examples of anionic surfactants include the alkoylisethionates, and the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The alkoylisethionates typically have the formula RCO—OCH₂CH₂SO₃M wherein R isalkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, and M is awater-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium andtriethanolamine. Nonlimiting examples of these isethionates includethose alkoyl isethionates selected from ammonium cocoyl isethionate,sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium stearoylisethionate, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the respectiveformulae ROSO₃M and RO(C₂H₄O)_(x)SO₃M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl offrom about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from about 1 to about 10,and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium andtriethanolamine. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are thewater-soluble salts of the organic, sulfuric acid reaction products ofthe general formula:R₁—SO₃-Mwherein R₁ is chosen from the group including a straight or branchedchain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 toabout 24, preferably about 10 to about 16, carbon atoms; and M is acation. Still other anionic synthetic surfactants include the classdesignated as succinamates, olefin sulfonates having about 12 to about24 carbon atoms, and β-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. Examples of thesematerials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Other anionic materials useful herein are soaps (i.e. alkali metalsalts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically havingfrom about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used in making the soaps can beobtained from natural sources such as, for instance, plant oranimal-derived glycerides (e.g., palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil,castor oil, tallow, lard, etc.) The fatty acids can also besynthetically prepared. Soaps are described in more detail in U.S. Pat.No. 4,557,853.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examplesof amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in thecompositions of the present invention are those which are broadlydescribed as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines inwhich the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain andwherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about22 carbon atoms (preferably C₈-C₁₈) and one contains an anionic watersolubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, orphosphonate. Examples are alkyl imino acetates, and iminodialkanoatesand aminoalkanoates of the formulas RN[CH₂)_(m)CO₂M]₂ andRNH(CH₂)_(m)CO₂M wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a C₈-C₂₂ alkyl oralkenyl, and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal ammonium, oralkanolammonium. Also included are imidazolinium and ammoniumderivatives. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactantsinclude sodium 3-dodecyl-aminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, N-alkyltaurines such as the one prepared by reactingdodecylamine with sodium isethionate according to the teaching of U.S.Pat. No. 2,658,072; N-higher alkyl aspartic acids such as those producedaccording to the teaching of U.S. Pat. No. 2,438,091; and the productssold under the trade name “Miranol” and described in U.S. Pat. No.2,528,378. Other examples of useful amphoterics include phosphates, suchas coamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (commercially availableas Monaquat PTC, from Mona Corp.).

Other amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants useful herein includebetaines. Examples of betaines include the higher alkyl betaines, suchas coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethylbetaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine (available as Lonzaine16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (wherein theRCONH(CH₂)₃ radical is attached to the nitrogen atom of the betaine),oleyl betaine (available as amphoteric Velvetex OLB-50 from Henkel), andcocamidopropyl betaine (available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 fromHenkel).

Other useful amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include thesultaines and hydroxysultaines such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine(available as Mirataine CBS from Rhone-Poulenc), and the alkanoylsarcosinates corresponding to the formula RCON(CH₃)CH₂CH₂CO₂M wherein Ris alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms, and M is awater-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium andtrialkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine), a preferred example of which issodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

(3) Water

The preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains from about 25% to about98%, preferably from about 65% to about 95%, more preferably from about70% to about 90% water by weight of the topical carrier.

The hydrophobic phase is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase. Thehydrophobic phase may contain water insoluble or partially solublematerials such as are known in the art, including but not limited to thesilicones described herein in reference to silicone-in-water emulsions,and other oils and lipids such as described above in reference toemulsions.

The topical compositions of the subject invention, including but notlimited to lotions and creams, may contain a dermatologically acceptableemollient. Such compositions preferably contain from about 1% to about50% of the emollient. As used herein, “emollient” refers to a materialuseful for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for theprotection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are knownand may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2ndEdition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples ofmaterials suitable as an emollient. A preferred emollient is glycerin.Glycerin is preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.001 to orabout 30%, more preferably from or about 0.01 to or about 20%, stillmore preferably from or about 0.1 to or about 10%, e.g., 5%.

Lotions and creams according to the present invention generally containa solution carrier system and one or more emollients. Lotions and creamstypically contain from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1%to about 20%, of emollient; from about 50% to about 90%, preferably fromabout 60% to about 80%, water; and the pentapeptide and/or pentapeptidederivative and the additional skin care active (or actives) in the abovedescribed amounts. Creams are generally thicker than lotions due tohigher levels of emollients or higher levels of thickeners.

Ointments of the present invention may contain a simple carrier base ofanimal or vegetable oils or semi-solid hydrocarbons (oleaginous);absorption ointment bases which absorb water to form emulsions; or watersoluble carriers, e.g., a water soluble solution carrier. Ointments mayfurther contain a thickening agent, such as described in Sagarin,Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73(1972), and/or an emollient. For example, an ointment may contain fromabout 2% to about 10% of an emollient; from about 0.1% to about 2% of athickening agent; and the pentapeptide and/or pentapeptide derivativeand the additional skin care active (or actives) in the above describedamounts.

Compositions of this invention useful for cleansing (“cleansers”) can beformulated with a suitable carrier, e.g., as described above, andpreferably comprise from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably fromabout 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. Thesurfactant is suitably selected from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic,amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of thesesurfactants. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in thedetergency art. Nonlimiting examples of possible surfactants includeisoceteth-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyltaurate, and sodium lauryl sulfate. See U.S. Pat. No. 4,800,197, toKowcz et al., issued Jan. 24, 1989, for exemplary surfactants usefulherein. Examples of a broad variety of additional surfactants usefulherein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, NorthAmerican Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation.The cleansing compositions can optionally contain, at theirart-established levels, other materials which are conventionally used incleansing compositions.

The physical form of the cleansing compositions is not critical. Thecompositions can be, for example, formulated as toilet bars, liquids,shampoos, bath gels, hair conditioners, hair tonics, pastes, or mousses.Rinse-off cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, require a deliverysystem adequate to deposit sufficient levels of actives on the skin andscalp. A preferred delivery system involves the use of insolublecomplexes. For a more complete disclosure of such delivery systems, seeU.S. Pat. No. 4,835,148, Barford et al., issued May 30, 1989.

As used herein, the term “foundation” refers to a liquid, semi-liquid,semi-solid, or solid skin cosmetic which includes, but is not limited tolotions, creams, gels, pastes, cakes, and the like. Typically thefoundation is used over a large area of the skin, such as over the face,to provide a particular look. Foundations are typically used to providean adherent base for color cosmetics such as rouge, blusher, powder andthe like, and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth, evenappearance to the skin. Foundations of the present invention include adermatologically acceptable carrier and may include conventionalingredients such as oils, colorants, pigments, emollients, fragrances,waxes, stabilizers, and the like. Exemplary carriers and such otheringredients which are suitable for use herein are described, forexample, in PCT Application, WO 96/33689, to Canter, et al., publishedon Oct. 31, 1996 and U.K. Patent, GB 2274585, issued on Aug. 3, 1994.

b. Orally Acceptable Carrier

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise an orallyacceptable carrier if they are to be ingested. Any suitable orallyingestible carrier or carrier form, as known in the art or otherwise,can be used. Non-limiting examples of oral personal care compositionscan include, but are not limited to, tablets, pills, capsules, drinks,beverages, powders, vitamins, supplements, health bars, candies, chews,and drops.

c. Injectible Liquid

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise a liquidthat is acceptable for injection in and/or under the skin if thecomposition is to be injected. Any suitable acceptable liquid as knownin the art or otherwise can be used.

V. Composition Preparation

The compositions useful for the methods of the present invention aregenerally prepared by conventional methods such as are known in the artof making topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection.Such methods typically can involve mixing of the ingredients in one ormore steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating,cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.

VI. Methods for Treating Keratinous Tissue Condition

The compositions of the present invention can be useful for treating anumber of mammalian keratinous tissue conditions. Such treatment ofkeratinous tissue conditions can include prophylactic and therapeuticregulation, including regulating the cosmetic appearance of themammalian keratinous tissue. More specifically, such treatment methodscan be directed to, but are not limited to, preventing, retarding,and/or treating uneven skin tone, reducing the size of pores inmammalian skin, regulating oily/shiny appearance of mammalian skin,thickening keratinous tissue (i.e., building the epidermis and/or dermisand/or subcutaneous layers of the skin and where applicable thekeratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft), preventing, retarding,and/or treating uneven skin tone by acting as a lightening orpigmentation reduction cosmetic agent, preventing, retarding, and/ortreating atrophy of mammalian skin, softening and/or smoothing lips,hair and nails of a mammal, preventing, retarding, and/or treating itchof mammalian skin, preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearanceof dark under-eye circles and/or puffy eyes, preventing, retarding,and/or treating sallowness of mammalian skin, preventing, retarding,and/or treating sagging (i.e., glycation) of mammalian skin, preventingand/or retarding tanning of mammalian skin, desquamating, exfoliating,and/or increasing turnover in mammalian skin, preventing, retarding,and/or treating hyperpigmentation such as post-inflammatoryhyperpigmentation, preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearanceof spider vessels and/or red blotchiness on mammalian skin, preventing,retarding, and/or treating fine lines and wrinkles of mammalian skin,preventing, retarding, and/or treating skin dryness (i.e., roughness,scaling, flaking) and preventing, retarding, and/or treating theappearance of cellulite in mammalian skin. In a preferred embodiment,the composition is used to treat the signs of aging; in one aspect, thecomposition is used to regulate the signs of aging; in another aspect,the composition is used to reduce or decrease the signs of aging; in yetanother aspect the composition is used to prevent the signs of aging inkeratinous tissue (e.g., skin, hair, or nails).

For instance, the present invention can be useful for therapeuticallyregulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in mammaliankeratinous tissue, including discontinuities in skin texture and color.For example, the apparent diameter of pores can be decreased, theapparent height of tissue immediately proximate to pore openings canapproach that of the interadnexal skin, the skin tone/color can becomemore uniform, and/or the length, depth, and/or other dimension of linesand/or wrinkles can be decreased.

Furthermore, compositions of the present invention can also be usefulfor cleansing (e.g, hair, body, facial), improving keratinous tissuefeel (wet & dry) such as for hair (e.g., improving appearance/look,detangling, shine, gloss, decrease coefficient of friction, increasesmoothness, color retention, decrease split ends, prevent hair breakage,prevent environmental damage such as sunlight damage, smoke damage, anddamage from pollutants such as nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, ozone,and metals such as lead), odor control, oil control, conditioning, hairvolume control, hair growth, and hair growth inhibition.

Regulating keratinous tissue conditions can involve topically applyingto the keratinous tissue a safe and effective amount of a composition ofthe present invention. The amount of the composition that is applied,the frequency of application, and the period of use will vary widelydepending upon the level of components of a given composition and thelevel of regulation desired, e.g., in view of the level of keratinoustissue damage present or expected to occur.

Furthermore, regulating keratinous tissue conditions can involve orallyingesting a safe and effective amount of a composition of the presentinvention. The amount of the composition that is ingested, the frequencyof ingestion, and the period of use will vary widely depending upon thelevel of components of a given composition and the level of regulationdesired, e.g., in view of the level of keratinous tissue damage presentor expected to occur.

In one embodiment, the composition is chronically applied to the skin,e.g. topically. By “chronic application” is meant continued topicalapplication of the composition over an extended period during thesubject's lifetime, preferably for a period of at least about one week,more preferably for a period of at least about one month, even morepreferably for at least about three months, even more preferably for atleast about six months, and more preferably still for at least about oneyear. While benefits are obtainable after various maximum periods of use(e.g., five, ten or twenty years), it is preferred that chronicapplications continue throughout the subject's lifetime. Typicallyapplications would be on the order of about once per day over suchextended periods, however, application rates can vary, and can includefrom about once per week up to about three times per day or more.

A wide range of quantities of the compositions of the present inventioncan be employed to provide a keratinous tissue appearance and/or feelbenefit when applied topically. For example, quantities of the presentcompositions, which are typically applied per application are, in mgcomposition/cm² keratinous tissue, from about 0.1 mg/cm² to about 20mg/cm². A particularly useful application amount is about 0.5 mg/cm² toabout 10 mg/cm².

Treating keratinous tissue condition can be practiced, for example, byapplying a composition in the form of a skin lotion, clear lotion, milkylotion, cream, gel, foam, ointment, paste, emulsion, spray, conditioner,tonic, cosmetic, lipstick, foundation, nail polish, after-shave, or thelike which is intended to be left on the skin or other keratinous tissuefor some aesthetic, prophylactic, therapeutic or other benefit (i.e., a“leave-on” composition). After applying the composition to thekeratinous tissue (e.g., skin), it is preferably left on for a period ofat least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes,even more preferably at least about 1 hour, even more preferably for atleast several hours, e.g., up to about 12 hours. Any part of theexternal portion of the face, hair, and/or nails can be treated, (e.g.,face, lips, under-eye area, eyelids, scalp, neck, torso, arms, hands,legs, feet, fingernails, toenails, scalp hair, eyelashes, eyebrows,etc.) The application of the present compositions may be done using thepalms of the hands and/or fingers or a device or implement (e.g., acotton ball, swab, pad, applicator pen, spray applicator, etc.)

Another approach to ensure a continuous exposure of the keratinoustissue to at least a minimum level of the composition is to apply thecompound by use of a patch applied, e.g., to the face. Such an approachis particularly useful for problem skin areas needing more intensivetreatment (e.g., facial crows feet area, frown lines, under eye area,upper lip, and the like). The patch can be occlusive, semi-occlusive ornon-occlusive, and can be adhesive or non-adhesive. The composition canbe contained within the patch or be applied to the skin prior toapplication of the patch. The patch can also include additional activessuch as chemical initiators for exothermic reactions such as thosedescribed in PCT application WO 9701313, and in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,821,250, 5,981,547, and 5,972,957 to Wu, et al. The patch can alsocontain a source of electrical energy (e.g., a battery) to, for example,increase delivery of the composition and active agents (e.g.,iontophoresis). The patch is preferably left on the keratinous tissuefor a period of at least about 5 minutes, more preferably at least about15 minutes, more preferably still at least about 30 minutes, even morepreferably at least about 1 hour, even more preferably at night as aform of night therapy.

In another embodiment, a personal care regimen is used to regulate thecondition of keratinous tissue. By “regimen” is meant the use of an oralcomposition in conjunction with a topical composition. In a particularembodiment, the oral composition and the topical composition arepackaged together as a kit. In another embodiment, the oral compositionand the topical composition are not packaged together as a kit, butpotential users of the regimen are informed (e.g. throughadvertisements, product labeling) that the oral and the topicalcompositions may be used in conjunction with one another to regulate thecondition of kerationous tissue. At least one of the compositions,either oral or topical, comprises a dipeptide of the present invention.Preferably, both the oral and the topical compositions comprise adipeptide of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The following are non-limiting examples of compositions of the presentinvention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustrationand are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, asmany variations thereof are possible without departing from the spiritand scope of the invention, which would be recognized by one of ordinaryskill in the art.

In the examples, all concentrations are listed as weight percent, unlessotherwise specified and may exclude minor materials such as diluents,filler, and so forth. The listed formulations, therefore, comprise thelisted components and any minor materials associated with suchcomponents. As is apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art, theselection of these minors will vary depending on the physical andchemical characteristics of the particular ingredients selected to makethe present invention as described herein.

Examples 1-5 Moisturizing Oil-in-Water Lotions/Creams

1 2 3 4 5 Water Phase: Water Qs qs qs qs qs Glycerin 3 5 7 10 15Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.1 Methylparaben 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1Niacinamide 2 0.5 — 3 5 Triethanolamine — 0.25 — — — D-panthenol 0.5 0.1— 0.5 1.5 Sodium Dehydroacetate 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 0.250.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 GLW75CAP-MP (75% aq. — 0.5 0.5 — — TiO2 dispersion)¹Hexamidine diisethionate — 0.1 — — — Palmitoyl-dipeptide² 0.000550.00055 0.0001 0.00055 0.00055 N-acetyl glucosamine 2 1 2 2 1 SoyIsoflavone 0.5 — — — — Oil Phase: Salicylic Acid — — 1.5 — —Isohexadecane 3 3 3 4 3 PPG15 Stearyl Ether — — 4 — — IsopropylIsostearate 1 0.5 1.3 1.5 1.3 Sucrose polyester 0.7 — 0.7 1 0.7Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline — — — 1.0 — Undecylenoyl — 0.5 — — —Phenylalanine Phytosterol — — 0.5 — 1.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.4 0.3 0.4 0.50.4 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.35 0.5 0.6 0.5 Behenyl alcohol 0.4 0.3 0.4 0.50.4 PEG-100 stearate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 Cetearyl glucoside 0.1 0.1 0.10.25 0.1 Thickener: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 1.5 — 2 2.5 2isoparaffin/laureth-7 Sodium acrylate/sodium — 3 — — — acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80 Additional Ingredients:Dimethicone/dimethiconol — 1 2 0.5 2 Polymethylsilsequioxane — — 0.25 —1 Nylon-12 — 0.5 — — — Prestige Silk Violet³ — — — — 1 Timiron SplendidRed⁴ — 1.0 — 2 — ¹Available from Kobo products²Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine available from Sederma ³Titanium dioxidecoated mica violet interference pigment available from Eckart ⁴Silicaand titanium dioxide coated mica red interference pigment available fromRona

In a suitable vessel, combine the water phase ingredients and heat to75° C. In a separate suitable vessel, combine the oil phase ingredientsand heat to 75° C. Next, add the oil phase to the water phase and millthe resulting emulsion (e.g., with a Tekmar T-25). Then, add thethickener to the emulsion and cool the emulsion to 45° C. whilestirring. At 45° C., add the remaining ingredients. Cool the product andstir to 30° C. and pour into suitable containers.

Examples 6-11 Moisturizing Silicone-in-Water Serums/Lotions

6 7 8 9 10 11 Water Phase: Water Qs Qs qs qs qs Qs Glycerin 3 5 7 10 1510 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 Niacinamide 2 0.5 — 3 5 3Sodium 0.5 0.1 — 0.1 0.5 0.1 Dehydroacetate D-panthenol 0.5 0.1 0.5 1.50.5 GLW75CAP-MP — 0.4 — — — 0.4 (75% aq. TiO2 dispersion)¹ AscorbylGlucoside — — — — — 1 Palmitoyl 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.000550.00055 dipeptide² Soy Isoflavone — 1 — — — — N-acetyl 2 — 2 — 5 —glucosamine Silicone/Oil Phase: Cyclomethicone D5 10 5 5 10 7.5 10 DowCorning 9040 — 10 5 5 7.5 5 Silicone elastomer³ KSG-15AP silicone 5 — 55 7.5 5 Elastomer⁴ Dimethione/ — 2 2 1 2 1 dimethiconol Dimethicone 50csk 1 — — — — — Salicylic Acid — — 1.5 — — — Phytosterol — — — 1.0 — 0.1PPG-15 Stearyl — — 4 4 — — Ether Dehydroacetic acid — — 0.5 — — —Undecylenoyl — — 0.5 — — — Phenylalanine BHT — 0.5 — — — — Vitamin EAcetate — 0.5 0.1 0.1 — 0.1 Thickener: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 2.5 2.5 — —— 3 isoparaffin/laureth-7 Sodiumacrylate/ — — — 3 — — sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/ polysorbate 80Acrylates/C10-30 — — 0.6 — 0.5 — alkyl acrylates crosspolymerUndecylenoyl Phenylalanine Premix Undecylenoyl — — — — 1 — PhenylalanineWater — — — — 24 — Triethanolamine — — — — 0.5 — DipalmitoylHydroxy-Proline Premix: Water — — — — — 4.4 Triethanolamine — — — — —0.1 Dipalmitoylhyroxy — — — — — 1.0 proline Additional Ingredients:Triethanolamine — — — — 0.6 — Polymethylsilsequioxane 0.5 0.5 1.0 1 10.5 Polyethylene — 0.5 0.5 1.0 — — Flamenco Summit — — 1.0 — — — GreenG30D⁵ Silca — — 1 0.5 — — Prestige Silk Red⁶ — — — 1.0 1.0 1.0¹GLW75CAP-MP, 75% aqueous titanium dioxide dispersion from Kobo²Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine available from Sederma ³A silicone elastomerdispersion from Dow Corning Corp ⁴A silicone elastomer dispersion fromShin Etsu, ⁵Titanium dioxide and tin oxide coated mica greeninterference pigment from Engelhard ⁶Titanium dioxide coated mica redinterference pigment from Eckart

In a suitable vessel, combine the water phase ingredients and mix untiluniform. In a separate suitable container, combine the silicone/oilphase ingredients and mix until uniform. Separately, prepare thedipalmitoyl hydroxyproline premix and/or undecylenoyl phenylalaninepremix by combining the premix ingredients in a suitable container, heatto about 70° C. while stirring, and cool to room temperature whilestirring. Add half the thickener and then the silicone/oil phase to thewater phase and mill the resulting emulsion (e.g., with a Tekmar T-25).Add the remainder of the thickener, the dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolinepremix and/or undecylenoyl phenylalanine premix, and then the remainingingredients to the emulsion while stirring. Once the composition isuniform, pour the product into suitable containers.

Examples 12-17 Moisturizing Water-in-Silicone Creams/Lotions

Component 12 13 14 15 16 17 Phase A Water qs qs qs qs qs qs Allantoin0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ethylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 propyl paraben 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1Caffeine — 1 — — — 1 BHT — 0.1 — 0.015 — — Dexpanthenol 1 0.5 1 1 1 1Glycerin 7.5 10 15 7.5 5 15 hexamidine isethionate — — 0.1 0.5 — —Niacinamide 2 — — 2 3.5 5 Palmitoyl-dipeptide¹ 0.00055 0.00055 0.000550.00055 0.00055 0.00055 Phenylbenzimidazole — — — — 1 — sulfonic acidSodium Dehydroacetate 0.5 — — 0.1 0.5 0.5 benzyl alcohol 0.25 0.25 0.250.25 0.25 0.25 Triethanolamine — — — — 0.6 — green tea extract 1 1 1 1 11 Soy Isoflavone — 0.5 — — — — N-acetyl glucosamine 5 — 2 5 2 — sodiummetabisulfite 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phase B Cyclopentasiloxane 15 1518 15 15 18 Titanium dioxide 0.5 0.5 0.75 0.5 0.5 0.75 Phase C C12-C15alkyl benzoate — — — 1.5 1.5 — vitamin E acetate 0.5 — 1 0.5 0.5 1retinyl propionate 0.3 — — 0.2 0.2 — Undecylenoyl — — 0.5 — — —Phenylalanine Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline — 1 — — — — Salicylic Acid —1.5 1.5 — — — PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 4 4 4 — — — Dehydroacetic Acid — 0.50.1 — — — Phytosterol 1 0.5 — — — — Phase D KSG-21 silicone elastomer² 44 5 4 4 5 Dow Corning 9040 silicone 15 15 12 15 15 12 elastomer³ AbilEM-97 Dimethicone 0.5 — — 0.5 0.5 — Copolyol⁴ Polymethylsilsesquioxane2.5 2.5 2 2.5 2.5 2 Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine Premix Undecylenoyl — — —— 1 — Phenylalanine Water — — — — 24 — Triethanolamine — — — — 0.5 —Phase E Water 8.8 — — — — 8.85 Triethanolamine 0.2 — — — — 0.25Dipalmitoylhyroxyproline 0.5 — — — — 1 ¹Palmitoyl-lysine-threonineavailable from Sederma ²KSG-21 is an emulsifying silicone elastomeravailable from Shin Etsu ³A silicone elastomer dispersion from DowCorning Corp ⁴Abil EM-97 available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation

In a suitable vessel, blend the Phase A components together with asuitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar model RW20DZM) and mix until all of thecomponents are dissolved. Then, blend the Phase B components together ina suitable vessel and mill using a suitable mill (e.g., Tekmar RW-20)for about 5 minutes. Add the Phase C components to the Phase B mixturewith mixing. Then, add the Phase D components to the mixture of Phases Band C and then mix the resulting combination of Phase B, C and Dcomponents using a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar RW-20) for about 1 hour.If applicable, prepare the undecylenoyl phenylalanine premix and/orPhase E by combining all ingredients, heating the ingredients to 70° C.while stirring, and cooling back to room temperature while stirring. Addthe undecylenoyl phenylalanine premix and/or Phase E to Phase A whilemixing. Next, slowly add Phase A to the mixture of Phases B, C and Dwith mixing. Mix the resulting mixture continually until the product isuniform. Mill the resulting product for about 5 minutes using anappropriate mill (e.g., Tekmar T-25).

Examples 18-22 Oil in Water Mousse

18 19 20 21 22 Water Phase: Water Qs qs qs qs qs Glycerin 3 5 7 10 15Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.1 Methylparaben 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1Niacinamide 2 0.5 — 3 5 Triethanolamine — 0.25 — — — D-panthenol 0.5 0.1— 0.5 1.5 Sodium Dehydroacetate 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 0.250.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 GLW75CAP-MP (75% — 0.5 0.5 — — aq. TiO2 dispersion)¹Undecylenoyl 1 — 0.5 — — Phenylalanine Hexamidine diisethionate — 0.1 —— — Palmitoyl-dipeptide² 0.00055 0.00055 0.0001 0.00055 0.00055 N-acetylglucosamine 2 1 2 2 1 Soy Isoflavone 0.5 — — — — Oil Phase: SalicylicAcid — — 1.5 — — Isohexadecane 3 3 3 4 3 PPG15 Stearyl Ether — — 4 — —Isopropyl Isostearate 1 0.5 1.3 1.5 1.3 Sucrose polyester 0.7 — 0.7 10.7 Undecylenoyl — 0.5 — — — Phenylalanine Dipalmitoylhyroxy- — — — 1.0— proline Phytosterol — — 0.5 — 1.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.4 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.4Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.35 0.5 0.6 0.5 Behenyl alcohol 0.4 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.4PEG-100 stearate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 Cetearyl glucoside 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.250.1 Thickener: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 1.5 — 2 2.5 2 isoparaffin/laureth-7Sodium acrylate/sodium — 3 — — — acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/ polysorbate 80 Additional Ingredients: Dimethicone/ — 1 20.5 2 dimethiconol Polymethylsilsequioxane — — 0.25 — 1 Nylon-12 — 0.5 —— — Prestige Silk Violet³ — — — — 1 Timiron Splendid Red⁴ — 1.0 — 2 —Propellant Phase 152 A HFC Propellant 3 4 2 3 2 A-70 Propellant 3 2 4 34 ¹Available from Kobo products ²Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine availablefrom Sederma ³Titanium dioxide coated mica violet interference pigmentavailable from Eckart ⁴Silica and titanium dioxide coated mica redinterference pigment available from Rona

In a suitable vessel, combine the water phase ingredients and heat to75° C. In a separate suitable vessel, combine the oil phase ingredientsand heat to 75° C. Next, add the oil phase to the water phase and millthe resulting emulsion (e.g., with a Tekmar T-25). Add the thickener tothe emulsion and cool the emulsion to 45° C. while stirring. At 45° C.,add the remaining ingredients. Cool the product with stirring to 30° C.and pour into suitable containers. Add propellant and product to asuitable aerosol container, and seal the container.

Examples 23-28 Silicone in Water Mousse

23 24 25 26 27 28 Water Phase: Water Qs Qs qs qs qs qs Glycerin 3 5 7 1015 10 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 Niacinamide 2 0.5 — 3 5 3Sodium 0.5 0.1 — 0.1 0.5 0.1 Dehydroacetate D-panthenol 0.5 0.1 — 0.51.5 0.5 GLW75CAP-MP — 0.4 — — — 0.4 (75% aq. TiO2 dispersion)¹ AscorbylGlucoside — — — — — 1 Palmitoyl dipeptide² 0.00055 0.00055 0.000550.00055 0.00055 0.00055 Soy Isoflavone — 1 — — — — N-acetyl glucosamine2 — 2 — 5 — Silicone/Oil Phase: Cyclomethicone D5 10 5 5 10 7.5 10 DowCorning 9040 — 10 5 5 7.5 5 silicone elastomer³ KSG-15AP silicone 5 — 55 7.5 5 Elastomer⁴ Dimethione/ — 2 2 1 2 1 Dimethiconol Dimethicone 50csk 1 — — — — — Salicylic Acid — — 1.5 — — — Phytosterol — — — 1.0 — 0.1PPG-15 Stearyl Ether — — 4 4 — — Dehydroacetic acid — — 0.5 — — —Undecylenoyl — — 0.5 — — — Phenylalanine BHT — 0.5 — — — — Vitamin EAcetate — 0.5 0.1 0.1 — 0.1 Thickener: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 2.5 2.5 — —— 3 isoparaffin/laureth-7 Sodiumacrylate/ — — — 3 — — Sodium acryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/ polysorbate 80Acrylates/C10-30 — — 0.6 — 0.5 — alkyl acrylates crosspolymerUndecylenoyl Phenylalanine/Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline PremixUndecylenoyl — — — — 1 — Phenylalanine Water — — — — 24 9Triethanolamine — — — — 0.5 0.2 Dipalmitoylhyroxyproline — — — — — 1.0Additional Ingredients: Triethanolamine — — — — 0.6 — Polymethyl 0.5 0.51.0 1 1 0.5 Silsequioxane Polyethylene — 0.5 0.5 1.0 — — Flamenco Summit— — 1.0 — — — Green G30D⁵ Silica — — 1 0.5 — — Prestige Silk Red⁶ — — —1.0 1.0 1.0 Propellant Phase 152A HFCPropellant 3 2 4 1 5 3 A-70Propellant 3 4 2 5 1 3 ¹GLW75CAP-MP, 75% aqueous titanium dioxidedispersion from Kobo ²Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine available from Sederma³A silicone elastomer dispersion from Dow Corning Corp ⁴A siliconeelastomer dispersion from Shin Etsu, ⁵Titanium dioxide and tin oxidecoated mica green interference pigment from Engelhard ⁶Titanium dioxidecoated mica red interference pigment from Eckart

In a suitable vessel, combine the water phase ingredients and mix untiluniform. In a separate suitable container, combine the silicone/oilphase ingredients and mix until uniform. Separately, prepare theundecylenoyl phenylalanine and/or dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline premix bycombining the premix ingredients in a suitable container, heat to about70° C. while stirring, and cool to room temperature while stirring. Addhalf the thickener and then the silicone/oil phase to the water phaseand mill the resulting emulsion (e.g., with a Tekmar T-25). Add theremainder of the thickener, the undecylenoyl phenylalanine and/ordipalmitoyl hydroxyproline premix, and then the remaining ingredients tothe emulsion while stirring. Once the composition is uniform, pour theproduct into suitable containers. Add the product and propellant into anaerosol container. Seal the aerosol container.

Examples 29-34 Water Based Stick Formulations

29 30 31 32 33 34 Water Phase: Water Qs qs qs qs qs Qs Palmitoyl 0.000550.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 dipeptide¹ Propylene Glycol 1525 20 15 25 20 Dipropylene Glycol 50 40 45 50 40 45 Sodium Stearate 6 66 6 6 6 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.25 — 0.7 0.6 — N-Acetyl-D- — 2.0 0.5 — —2.0 Glucosamine Undecyenoyl — 0.5 — 1 — — Phenylalanine Niacinamide 23.5 2 3.5 Sodium 0.5 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.5 1.0 Dehydroacetate Dipalmitoyl 1 —— 1 0.5 — Hydroxyproline ¹Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine available fromSederma

All ingredients are combined into an appropriate size container, heatedto 85° C., cooled and poured into stick containers at approximately 65°C.

Examples 35-40 Anhydrous Stick Formulations

35 36 37 38 39 40 Oil Phase: Isopropyl 5 4 3 5 4 3 Isostearate Palmitoyl0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 0.00055 dipeptide¹Octylmethoxycinnamate 5 2 2 5 2 2 Cyclomethicone Qs qs qs qs qs qsPhenyl 5 5 5 5 5 5 trimethicone Stearyl Alcohol 15 17 15 15 17 15Behenyl Alcohol 1 1 1 1 1 1 Undecylenoyl — 0.5 — 1.0 0.5 0.5 Phenylalanine Dehydroacetic acid 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.1 1.0 Dipalmitoyl 1 — 1.0 —0.5 — Hydroxyproline Phytosterol 1 0.5 — — 0.5 1 Salicylic Acid — — 0.51.5 — 1.0 ¹Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine available from Sederma

All ingredients added to an appropriate size container, heated to 75° C.then cooled with stirring until mixture reaches approximately 45° C. Themixture is poured into stick containers.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in itsentirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation ofany document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect toany invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in anycombination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests ordiscloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning ordefinition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning ordefinition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, themeaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shallgovern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A topical personal care composition for treatingskin, comprising: a. an effective amount of the dipeptidePalmitoyl-Lys-Thr; and b. a dermatologically acceptable carrier.
 2. Thecomposition of claim 1, further comprising an additional activeingredient selected from the group consisting of niacinamide,N-acetylglucosamine, sodium dehydroacetate, phytosterols, soyderivatives, hexamidines, retinoids, water soluble vitamins, waterinsoluble vitamins, amino acids, sunscreen actives, butylatedhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, pentapeptides, andcombinations thereof.
 3. The composition of claim 2, further comprisingpalmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser.
 4. The composition of claim 2, furthercomprising a vitamin B₃ compound.
 5. The composition of claim 1, furthercomprising from about 0.01% to about 20% of a particulate material. 6.The composition of claim 5, wherein the particulate material comprises aspherical powder with an average primary particle size of from about 0.1to about 75 microns.
 7. The composition of claim 1, further comprising askin lightening agent.
 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein saidcomposition is selected from the group consisting of shave products,pre-shave products, and after-shave products.